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When I changed the battery two leads came off one red and one black both are connected to the clock and go to the circuit board this is a cmz984

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Andrew Taylor

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They can go either way. You can normally tell by looking carefully at the break, what went where.

https://www.google.com/search?q=cmz984

Posted on Jun 29, 2020

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Troy bilt pony will not start. replaced 20 amp fuse and battery


OK -- Here's what to do:
TROY-BILT PONY LT CRANKING CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING

NOTE 1: The following tests are to be made with the parking brake applied and the PTO disengaged unless otherwise specified.

NOTE 2: These tests need only be made until the cause of the problem is located. The entire process need not be completed if the problem has been resolved.

NOTE 3: Refer to the wiring diagram below for understanding of all tersts.

NOTE 4: Wiring Diagram references to Key switch A1 and L terminals refer to the same terminal.

1. With all circuits connected normally, connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the battery positive terminal. The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, go to step 2.
b. If YES, go to Step 3.

2. Connect a DC voltemeter directly across the battery. The voltmeter should read at least 12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, charge or replace the battery.
b. If YES, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 2 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 3.
-- battery negative cable condition
-- battery negative cable connections at the battery
-- battery negative cable connections at the tractor frame

3. With all circuits connected normally, connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key swttch "B" terminal (Circuit #97 - red/white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, go to step 4.
b. If YES, go to Step 8.

4. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay BAT terminal (Circuit #94 - heavy red wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 4 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 5.
-- battery positive cable condition
-- battery positive cable connections at the battery
-- battery positive cable connection at the starter relay
b. If YES, go to Step 5.

5. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the fuse holder BAT terminal (Circuit #92 - red wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 5 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 6.
-- Circuit 92 wire condition
-- Circuit 92 wire connection at the starter relay
-- Circuit 92 wire connection at the fuse holder
b. If YES, go to Step 6.

6. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the fuse holder protected circuit terminal (Circuit #97 - red & white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 6 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 7.
-- 20A fuse condition
-- fuse holder condition
-- fuse holder wire connections
b. If YES, go to Step 7.

7. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key switch "B" terminal (Circuit #97 - red & white wire). The voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 7 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 8.
-- Circuit 97 wire condition
-- Circuit 97 connection at fuse holdser
-- Circuit 97 connection at key switch
b. If YES, go to Step 8.

8. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the key switch "S" terminal (Circuit #80 - orange wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 8 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 9.
-- key switch assembly
b. If YES, go to Step 9.

9. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the parking brake switch Circuit #80 terminal (Circuit #80 - orange wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 9 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 10.
-- Circuit 80 wire condition
-- Circuit 80 connection at key switch
-- Circuit 80 connection at parking brake switch
b. If YES, go to Step 10.

10. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the parking brake switch Circuit #70 terminal (Circuit #70 - orange & black wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at
least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 10 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 11.
-- parking brake switch assembly mounting and adjustment
-- parking brake switch assembly condition
b. If YES, go to Step 11.

11. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the PTO switch Circuit #70 terminal (Circuit #70 - orange & black wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 11 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 12.
-- Circuit 70 wire condition
-- Circuit 70 connection at parking brake switch
-- Circuit 70 connection at PTO switch
b. If YES, go to Step 12.

12. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the PTO switch Circuit #60 terminal (Circuit #60 - orange & white wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6
VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 12 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 13.
-- PTO switch assembly mounting and adjustment
-- PTO switch assembly condition
b. If YES, go to Step 13.

13. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay Circuit #60 terminal (Circuit #60 - orange & white wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least
+12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 11 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 14.
-- Circuit 60 wire condition
-- Circuit 60 connection at PTO switch
-- Circuit 60 connection at starter relay
b. If YES, go to Step 14.

14. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay MOT terminal (Circuit #93 - heavy red wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, did the relay make a single heavy "click" noise?
1. if YES, replace the starter relay and repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
2. If NO, connect a DC voltmeter DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the battery negative terminal and the red (POS) lead to the starter relay frame. With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read a maximum of +0.1 VDC.
a. If YES, replace the starter relay and repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
b. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 14 test. If YES on retest, go to Step 15.
-- starter relay mounting
b. If YES, go to Step 15.

15. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the tractor frame and the red (POS) lead to the starter motor BAT terminal (Circuit #93 - heavy red wire). With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read at least +12.6 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 15 test. If YES on retest, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16.
-- Circuit 93 cable condition
-- Circuit 93 cable connection at starter relay
-- Circuit 93 cable connection at starter motor
b. If YES, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16.

16. Connect a DC voltmeter black (NEG) lead to the battery negative terminal and the red (POS) lead to the starter motor frame . With the key held in the START position, the voltmeter should read a maximum of +0.2 VDC.
a. If NO, check and repair/replace the following items as required, then repeat Step 16 test. If YES on retest, but the starter motor does not engage, go to Step 16b.
-- starter motor mounting to engine
-- engine mounting to tractor frame
b. If YES, but the starter motor does not engage, replace the starter motor.


REFERENCE PART NUMBERS PER WIRING DIAGRAM:

Note that your specific tractor may use differnt part numbers. You can obtain a Parts List specific to your tractor online, at no charge, from Troy-Bilt at www.troybilt.com -- your full model number and serial number are required.

Key Switch 725-04228 (common alternatives are 925-04227B & 925-04659)Parking Brake Switch 725-1657A (common alternative is 725-04363)
PTO Switch 725-1657A (common alternative is 725-04363)
Starter Relay 725-04439

Also note that the starter motor is an engine manufacturer supplied part.



7_20_2012_4_14_09_pm.jpg

Jul 19, 2012 | Troy Garden

1 Answer

I am not sure on how to wire the freeze protection wires to the time clock. i know they must go to the load side of the clock for the main pump but will this reverse the power back into controls and short...


Here's a 240V diagram with clock timer and freeze control:
Add a comment if explanation does not fit your exact timer:

geno_3245_67.jpg
See image full size:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Freeze-protection-500.jpg

Here's how freeze control works:
Freeze control is like regular timer, except it turns ON by thermostat instead of time-clock
Freeze control turns ON pump whenever thermostat kicks on.
Both clock-timer and freeze-control are wired to pump in 'parallel' so to speak.
Think of it as having two controls wired to same pump...
Both controls can turn pump ON-OFF.
If one turns ON, and other is OFF ... then pump is ON.
If both are ON, then pump is ON ... and electricity just flows around on extra wires.
If both are OFF, then pump is OFF.

Say it's below freezing all day.
Freeze control circuit is ON all day ... pump is ON all day
Clock timer turns ON > but circuit is already ON, so timer just opens more wires for electricity to flow around on.
When clock timer turns OFF > freeze circuit is still ON because it's below freezing ... pump is still ON.

240V wiring:
Power leads coming from circuit breaker go to terminals 1&3 on clock-timer
Same power leads connect to freeze-control-black and freeze-control-red.
Or connect freeze-control-black and freeze-control-red to terminals 1&3
This action puts power to clock and power to thermostat

Pump wires connect to terminals 2&4
Same pump wires also connect to freeze-control-blue and freeze-control-yellow.
Or connect freeze-control-blue and freeze-control-yellow to terminals 2&4
This action connects pump to both freeze-control and timer.
When either clock-timer or freeze-control turn ON, then pump turns ON.

Nov 15, 2010 | Intermatic Timer PF1222TB Multi Circuit...

1 Answer

My acu-rite keeps beeping even after a battery change. Why?


I cut the wire that leads to the annoying noisemaker. Carefully remove the rear cover to expose the circuit board (the rear cover is connected to the circuit board so pull them apart carefully). Locate the noisemaker, mine was round and connected to the back cover with black and red wires. Cut the black and red wires and replace the rear cover. NOTE: If you use the alarm feature, it won't work anymore. I read on the Acurite site that the reason it beeps is because of interference with the wireless signal. They suggest not using one of your wireless devices. If you are like me, that isn't a good option.

Nov 11, 2010 | Acu-Rite AcuRite IndoorOutdoor Wireless...

1 Answer

I bought Utilitech #0141224 7 day digital in wall timer. I have just 2 wires at the junction box both of which are painted over but assume one could be black and other white. The 7 day digital timer...


If your box contains 2 and only 2 wires, then the Utilitec timer will not work.
You need the Intermatic ST01C or EJ500 timers that operate with a battery.

I have tested the Intermatic and Utilitec timers:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-0141224.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#wire
Do not connect white and red wires together on any timer, but thank you for solving the problem why lights blink when connecting timers.

Now lets look at your wires.
Scrape paint off the wires so you can identify white and black.
According to your information, the black wire inside box will connect to timer-black wire.
The red wire always goes to Load (your light, fan, motor)
The white wire is necessary to complete a circuit so the clock inside timer will operate.
The timer has a clock just like your alarm clock, and it needs to connect back to neutral busbar in breaker box.
This is why the battery-operated timers will work with two wires, the clock runs on battery.
The Utilitec timer-white wire is the wire that goes to Neutral
The timer-white wire is supposed to connect to the other white wires that are twisted together and covered with a wire nut ... but some boxes do not have this neutral wire
To work-around, the timer-white wire can also connect to a bare ground wire.
The bare ground wire also connects to Neutral busbar in breaker box

If you do not have a neutral or ground wire as described above, then you need the battery-powered ST01C or EJ500 Intermatic timers.
See if you can pull some more of the wire into your box ... there might be a ground wire that was cut off and pulling more wire might reveal a ground wire. This will salvage the project.
Aplus is one of many places that sell the Intermatic timer
http://www.aplussupply.com/intermatic/timer.htm

For more about electric wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

Oct 23, 2010 | Intermatic Inc. ST01C Digital In-Wall...

2 Answers

Utilitech Wall Timer #0192773 does not switch landscape lights on? Replaced Intermatic that had 3 wires. Black to Black, blue to black and red was capped. Utilitech came with 4 wires - black, white,...


Old timer: Intermatic EJ500 & ST01C timers have a battery. Battery operates the clock motor. Red wire is for 3-way circuit [a hallway with 2 switches is a 3-way circuit].

Utilitec timer, clock runs on 120Volt circuit instead of battery. So clock has to have power.

How to connect wires:
Black timer wire connects to hot wire from breaker box.
Red (or blue) timer wire goes to landscape lights.
White timer wire connects to white neutral wire [or if no neutral is available, connect to bare ground wire].
Green timer wire goes to bare ground wire.

How to find black hot wire and white neutral wire inside box
: Disconnect and separate wires so you can test. Use ordinary tester. Power is on. There is only 1 black hot wire inside each electrical box. Test each black wire to bare ground until tester light comes on > that identifies the black hot wire. Next, test black hot wire to white wires until tester light comes on > that is the neutral wire. Exception: This test does not necessarily work with 3-way switches since they reverse each time switch is thrown.

Sep 14, 2010 | Intermatic Inc. ST01C Digital In-Wall...

1 Answer

I have a tork 1103 electromechanical switch. its working but wont


T1103 can be wired many ways.
T1103 has 240V clock motor.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101

You are connecting 240Volt pool pump to timer.
Open link below and see wiring diagram: look at bottom left diagram:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/110111021103WIRING.pdf

Electricians don't guess, they test.
Turn power off and separate wires for testing.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Stand on dry boards. Wear dry clothes.
Do not touch anything metal.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
For 240V circuit, two different wires should light up tester. Working from your description, by code, these wires should be black and red.
Each of these wires is Hot wire.
These are called Line wires, wires going to pump are called Load wires.
Hot wires connect to terminals L and 1. This will power the clock motor and dial will rotate as time passes, assuming clock motor is good.

Hots are identified.
Test one of the hot wires to remaining wire, and not to bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. This should be white wire.
Double check that Neutral wire did not light up on bare ground.
Neutral is not connected to any 1103 terminal.

Remaining wires go to Load (pool pump).
By code, assuming Hot Lines are Red and Black, the Red & Black Load wires connect to X terminal and 2 terminal, in either order. One wire on each terminal.
White wire connects to Neutral wire and is covered with wire nut.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Jul 15, 2010 | TORK Digital Interval Timer Ssa100r-24

1 Answer

I have a Nitro 929 dual console bass boat 20 ft. I keeps killing the main cranking battery. I check and nothing is on all switches in off position no lights on etc. I checked the circuit that has the bilge...


Disconnected all the circuits at the battery end. Reattached each circuit one at a time . I connected the hot lead first then used a fluke voltmeter on mil amp setting -used the red lead to the end of the load wire black negative end and the black fluke lead to the negative battery post -- registered the current draw and found the circuit that was draining battery then went to each device on the circuit in this case it was a bad bilge pump motor for some reason it was shorting out but not enought to blow the circuit fuse.

Nov 30, 2009 | Nitro Boating

1 Answer

I bought a Cen-Tec automotive logic probe,the wires that are sodered to the circuit board broke. One side is +, the other -, does it matter which side I soder the wires back to the board? Help


Yes, it is important to have the proper wires, based on the color code, connected to the proper polarity of the tester so all functions will read correctly.

If you notice on the circuit board, there should be a small indication mark for denoting the positive (+) and negative (-) connection points. If the test lead wires are Red and Black, you should wire the Red wire lead to the positive (+) connection point and the Black wire to the negative (-) point. You might have to look at the backside of the circuit board to see the polarity markings.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Oct 14, 2009 | Measuring Tools & Sensors

2 Answers

Belkin 1500va (uses 2 - 12v 7ah batteries)


check out this picture, it shows the 2 batteries wired up.

Notice that the batteries are flipped opposite of each other.
So from left to right its: bottom red, bottom black, top black, top red

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1092&page=2

Between the 2 batteries there is 1 red to black connection.
Then black to black-wire to circuit board
and red to red-wire to circuit board.

Aug 22, 2009 | Belkin (F6C800-UNV-PL) UPS System

2 Answers

Treadmill trips electrics


Check to see that the treadmill does not draw more amp than stated in the owners manual. If you are, then the problem is in treadmill. If not try another circuit in the house (not just another receptacle).

Jan 09, 2009 | Proform 380 CS Treadmill !

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