On screens now that are like that, there are several rows of strips that run across the back evenly spaced and according to the book, that unit has 2
SOURCE: Encoder Strip
tried for hours to reattach my encoder strip, and finally figured out the way to do it after reading many web postings, and my own trial and error.
The key is to use a "dental mirror" that you can pick up at a pharmacy or hardware store for about $5. (Perhaps a small compact mirror may also work.) And you need to focus light back there. (I used a head lamp.)
The problem is you just can not see the small slot through which the encoder strip must be threaded from the front of the printer. It sits in back of the ink cartridges. This thin slot "tunnel" goes though a rectangular piece of plastic. You can feel the rectangular piece of plastic in back of the ink cartridges, and looking with the dental mirror you can see how small the slots are on the right and left side, through which the encoder strip must be threaded. After "seeing" these small slots using the dental mirror, you then can feel them with the tip of a fingernail, and know exactly what you are aiming for as you then feed the encoder strip through. (It doesn't make any difference of you feed the strip from the left or the right, but the down arrow end of the encoder stip must end up on the right when you later attach it to the wire tab.) I fed the strip "blind" after I had formed a strong mental image of exacly what I was trying to do, and now being able to feel the small slot I was aiming for with the tip of a fingernail. (It is tough working in the small space in back of the ink cartridges, and if you have really big hands and fingers it may be impossible. I did not want to use forceps or tweezers because of a fear of damaging the encoder strip.)
The encoder strip then must be attached with the down arrow end on the right attaching to a flimsy looking wire on the right side of the printer. The left end of the encoder strip must be attached to a metal tab on the left side of the printer. You will need to hold tension on the encoder strip, and manually push the sliding ink cartridge back and forth out of the way as you attatch both ends.
(It's probably a good idea to gently clean the encoder stip of all your fingerprints and any smudged ink with a tissue after you get it back in place. Also be sure to clean the metal bar the ink cartridges slide back and forth on, so you don't get error message 0502.)
Be prepared for this to be a very frustating experience!
You will be maddened by how many times it will take to thread the encoder strip though the slot, how difficult it will be to catch the end of the encoder strip on the wire and metal tabs, and how you will have to figure out how to hold tension on the encoder strip so one end won't fall off as you attach the other end.
But once you use the dental mirror to see where you have to thread the encoder strip, and once you see the wire and metal tabs to which the ends of the encoder strip must be attached, then YOU CAN DO IT! It just takes persistance.
SOURCE: I have a Samsung LN32A550 LCD TV. When I turn on
One thing you can try IF you know how to work with electronics.
Unplug and remove back cover. Remove the metal cover on the LCD Controller card. (it near the top of set) You may have to disconnect the top of the "H" frame to get to it. Disconnect and carefully re-connect the flat ribbon cable for the left side of the display. (The right side is good so don't touch it.) The connector for the flat ribbons will flip up to release the ribbon. The ribbon is short so this is tricky to do right. You may need a small plastic tool to help. Dont' break the connector. With the card back in place check if the band is still present. If vertical lines appear on the display, unplug and reposition the cable again until they are gone.
Don't touch the contacts on the connectors.
Re-assemble the set. No parts should be left over !!
LCD Controllers for this set are for sale on eBay if need.
SOURCE: My LCD TV Has 4
The dots cannot be rectified, static dots of this kind on an LCD panel are dead pixels or liquid cristal leaks, depending on their hape and aspect.
The only fix is by replacing the LCD panel, that is an expensive part and must be ordered by phone, as it is not normally in stock.
You can inquire by phone here to find out part price.
SOURCE: removal of heater control switch on rh side of dashboard.
the panel just pops out it has clips holding it in, you might want to pull the side panel off just in case there is a 7mm screw holding it in but that should only be for the radio removal, i have a question for you, how did you replace that actuator and did that solve your problem, my car does the same thing and i already replaced the switch, and te climate control panel, thanks.
SOURCE: I have a Samsung 56"
Actually the Samsung model you have was the first model to come out in 2006 that did not have a color wheel. The LED blinking is actually a self diagnostic program of sorts. Depending on which lights are blinking, and how often, the service manual will tell you where you should start checking or replacing parts and assemblies. I do have most of the codes, so can you tell me if the if the LED light is the only one flashing, how long it flashes, and do any other lights flash at all? Thank you.
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