Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges
Posted on May 25, 2020
I know you probably have the problem fixed by now, but I had the same problem with my frigidaire range just the other day. Loud popping sound, range/clock controls do not work. Stovetop still works great.
I took the back off the stove and got to the circuit board. Unplug the connector and the five spade connector wires. Once you do that, remove the 4 screws holding the entire assembly in place. The circuit board(s) are held in the housing with retaining clips on the housing. Use a small screwdriver or similar to pull back on each clip to pry each side of the board out. Once the board(s) are free, look in between the two circuit boards and you will see the problem. The larger, 20 amp relay is the culprit. It blew traces off of both boards making it almost impossible to repair. Without having a schematic to go by, I went ahead and decided to just replace w/ new boards as opposed to trying to solder the traces. I have not checked on prices, but brief web searches didn't return any results. The board part # is SF5301-S7509-N
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
I will try to assist you but will be making some assumptions based on your problem description. First off, when you say it takes a few tries torest the fuses.. are you referring to circuit breakers? or changing out fuses a few time until it begins to work ok? In either case, the fact that it is drawing more current than the service ( fused or circuit breaker protected implies that you have one of two problems, 1. undersized service ( meaning the fuse of circuit breaker which protect the circuit is under-sized) or 2. a short internal to the stove or receptacle that supplies power to that stove.
I would approach a solution in this manner. Remove or disable power to the stove then open the wall receptacle and ( with power verified and off) tighten all wire junctions.. I have seen cases where a loose wire termination becomes resistive and then in order to meet power demand at the burner, more current is drawn which in turn causes the breaker or fuse to trip..) I would also check the terminations at the point of entry for the power cord at the stove. Make sure all the wire terminations are tight. Once you've done that, try turning on one burner at a time and see if the service remains on or trips the protector ( fuse/breaker) I wouldn't use the oven until I verified that each burner works OK.. then try the oven by itself.. and add a burner .. then two.. ( the point being is to try to determine if you have one of the heating elements shorting. 12:00 flashing is the default time setting after power is lost and restarted. I am almost 'questioning your electricians findings" since circuits do not trip unless there is a fault ( too much current being drawn or the service is under-sized for that oven) or... the circuit protection in and of itself is failing due to marginal components. The fact that it is getting worse suggests that whatever was shorting is shorting more frequently.. perhaps a heating element is shorting after it gets hot.. they are typically resistive elements and it is possible for a short to develop between the core material and the protective jacket.. I hope that helps you... or at least provides a few ideas on where to look...
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
you must remove the MW take off the cover then look for a large metal can (capacitor) and a white (ceramic) fuse...look and, smell and, you should find the cause
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
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