Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

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Kenmore electric range 94149 circuit breaker blew we got it back on now my oven and top burners don't work I can set clock please advise

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Terry

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 11,377 Answers

Https://web.archive.org/web/20180613173353/https://c.shld.net/assets/docs/spin_prod_848270112.pdf

Posted on May 25, 2020

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5 Related Answers

fridgetech

Craig Shelton

  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: clock,timer and oven does not work on Kenmore gas Range

Unplug the unit and see if this will reset the board. If this doesn't work then replace the oven control board.

Posted on Oct 05, 2007

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David Coomer

  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: oven burnout

replace the oven control

Posted on Apr 25, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: frigidaire electrolux gallery series

stoveboy,

I know you probably have the problem fixed by now, but I had the same problem with my frigidaire range just the other day. Loud popping sound, range/clock controls do not work. Stovetop still works great.

I took the back off the stove and got to the circuit board. Unplug the connector and the five spade connector wires. Once you do that, remove the 4 screws holding the entire assembly in place. The circuit board(s) are held in the housing with retaining clips on the housing. Use a small screwdriver or similar to pull back on each clip to pry each side of the board out. Once the board(s) are free, look in between the two circuit boards and you will see the problem. The larger, 20 amp relay is the culprit. It blew traces off of both boards making it almost impossible to repair. Without having a schematic to go by, I went ahead and decided to just replace w/ new boards as opposed to trying to solder the traces. I have not checked on prices, but brief web searches didn't return any results. The board part # is SF5301-S7509-N

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

Anonymous

  • 706 Answers

SOURCE: circuit blows and when we get it back on the fault code says H3

Hello rcgrecco,
I will try to assist you but will be making some assumptions based on your problem description. First off, when you say it takes a few tries torest the fuses.. are you referring to circuit breakers? or changing out fuses a few time until it begins to work ok? In either case, the fact that it is drawing more current than the service ( fused or circuit breaker protected implies that you have one of two problems, 1. undersized service ( meaning the fuse of circuit breaker which protect the circuit is under-sized) or 2. a short internal to the stove or receptacle that supplies power to that stove.
I would approach a solution in this manner. Remove or disable power to the stove then open the wall receptacle and ( with power verified and off) tighten all wire junctions.. I have seen cases where a loose wire termination becomes resistive and then in order to meet power demand at the burner, more current is drawn which in turn causes the breaker or fuse to trip..) I would also check the terminations at the point of entry for the power cord at the stove. Make sure all the wire terminations are tight. Once you've done that, try turning on one burner at a time and see if the service remains on or trips the protector ( fuse/breaker) I wouldn't use the oven until I verified that each burner works OK.. then try the oven by itself.. and add a burner .. then two.. ( the point being is to try to determine if you have one of the heating elements shorting. 12:00 flashing is the default time setting after power is lost and restarted. I am almost 'questioning your electricians findings" since circuits do not trip unless there is a fault ( too much current being drawn or the service is under-sized for that oven) or... the circuit protection in and of itself is failing due to marginal components. The fact that it is getting worse suggests that whatever was shorting is shorting more frequently.. perhaps a heating element is shorting after it gets hot.. they are typically resistive elements and it is possible for a short to develop between the core material and the protective jacket.. I hope that helps you... or at least provides a few ideas on where to look...
Regards,
Rick

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

jmgldsmth

Jim Goldsmith

  • 2005 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore over the range microwave 721.63684300 - nothing works

you must remove the MW take off the cover then look for a large metal can (capacitor) and a white (ceramic) fuse...look and, smell and, you should find the cause

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

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1 Answer

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Try replacing ONE stovetop burner and see if the new one works. If it does, replace more stovetop burners. If the new ones all work, replace the oven burners.

If that first replacement stovetop burner STILL doesn't work, don't replace any more. Instead, check (or have checked) the circuit breaker for the range. It may get power from a second source to power the clock.

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This may sound silly, but go check your circuit breaker and flip it completely off and then back on. Sometimes it does not completely trip and your clock only needs 120 volts to work which you have, but the heating coils need 240 volts. If you have an older house that has a fuse panel instead of circuit breakers you could have a blown fuse.

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I have a Kenmore electric range with burners not a flat top. The clock and the oven light work. The ovven and the burners do not work. I have reset the breaker. Could one side of a breaker burn out? Thxs


Yes, one side of a double pole circuit breaker could go bad, but unless you live in a really old house it isn't likely. Instead of just replacing the circuit breaker, $30+, you might want to check with your neighbors and borrow a multimeter to check the outlet to see if you have 120 volts on each leg of your outlet (which makes up the 240 volts you need). If you have 120 volts on each leg then your breaker and outlet are functioning.

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Check your main fuses, it sounds like you are only operating on 120 volts.One of them is blown.Or if on breakers, switch stove breaker off then on again.

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please rate and god bless:)

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