I have a turbo air TGM-48R hasnt been plugged in for a while I'm guessing we plugged it in and the compressor makes a popping or cracking noise not cooling. Any one know what this means? Relay? Compressor? Or neither?

The cause of damage There are several main causes of turbocharger damage:
Find your cause by checking what was your Turbo's condition.

Oil/lubrication

To work effectively, a turbo needs a constant flow of clean oil, and to keep your turbo in top condition, you need to ensure that you change the oil and oil filter regularly.
This helps to prevent the build up of carbon deposits and contaminants that can cause abrasive damage to the inside of your turbocharger, reducing its efficiency and causing irreparable damage over time. Fully synthetic oil produces the least amount of carbon.

Foreign objects

Sometimes, foreign objects like broken engine components, dust particles, small stones, dirt and leaves can enter your turbocharger, either via the compressor inlet or the turbine inlet.
These can then cause impact damage and abrasion to the compressor wheels and turbine blades, which will start to reduce the efficiency of the turbo. To prevent this happening, you need to ensure that your air filter is serviced regularly, and that you check your turbo for loose connections or debris.

Over-speeding

A turbocharger works by increasing the air pressure in an engine (check out our beginners FAQ for further info).
If there are any leaks, cracks or poor seals between the compressor and the engine, the turbo will have to work much harder than it should have to increase this pressure. This will reduce the efficiency and boost delivered by the turbo.

Other causes

In addition to the causes listed above, excessive exhaust gas temps (EGT's), moisture ingress, wear and tear, fuel intake systems, the wastegate and the exhaust system can also cause damage to your turbocharger.
The warning signs There are several ways that your vehicle will let you know that its turbo is in need of maintenance or repairs:
Check engine warning lights - On most modern cars, the computer diagnostics will pick up turbo faults and the check engine light will come on. Of course, the check engine light doesn't just cover turbo failure, and you will need to do some further checks to see what kind of engine problem you have.
The boost gauge - Some turbocharged vehicles are fitted with a boost gauge, which lets you know how much boost your turbo is producing (you can also fit one to your car if desired). If your boost gauge isn't going up as much as it used to, then there is a good chance your turbo is in need of repair.
Power loss - If you notice that your turbocharged vehicle is accelerating more slowly than usual, or isn't capable of reaching the speeds it once could, this may be a sign that your turbo is failing.
A smoking exhaust - If the turbo housing has cracked, or the internal seals have blown, oil will start to leak into your exhaust system. As this burns off, it produces a distinctive blue/grey smoke, which will probably become more apparent as the engine revs increase just following an idle situation.
A loud whining noise - Often, a failing turbocharger will make a loud, distinctive noise when under boost - a bit like a dentist's drill or police siren if compressor wheel damaged. If you start to hear this noise from your engine, it's definitely time to have it checked out!
The next steps - checking your turbo If you notice any of the warning signs, then get your turbo checked as soon as possible. Your turbocharger isn't going to repair itself, and the longer you leave it, the worse (and more expensive) the problem will get!
At AET, we're always happy to help with the cost-effective diagnosis and repairs on a full range of turbochargers. Alternatively, if you're mechanically minded and aren't afraid of looking under the bonnet, you can check for a range of faults yourself by inspecting the turbo.
Essentially, you are looking for signs of oil, excessive movement, impact damage and contact between the compressor wheel and housing.
Before you start the process, we recommend checking the air filter, exhaust system, breather system and fuel system on your vehicle are all working properly, as these can cause similar symptoms to turbo failure.
Once you've done that, you'll need to remove the air filter to gain access to the turbo. First, examine the exterior, checking for any signs of oil or loose connections.
Then, check the compressor wheel - it should be clean, without any dings, chips, or signs corrosive pitting. Look out for evidence of excessive movement, ensuring that the wheel can't touch the housing, and check to see whether the turbocharger is able to rotate freely.
I you are feeling particularly ambitious; you can also check the exhaust side of the turbo. First, remove the exhaust pipe all the way to the turbo, so you can see the turbine wheel. This should look clean, with no carbon build up, scale or oil along the surface, and the blades should be free from cracks, wear and damage.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

sounds like start component issues. capacitors, relay, or connections.

Robert Moller have the answer. Thnx Mr. Moller.

Display Codes:

E1-Automatic filter clean reminder.

Turn the air conditioner OFF and unplug it. NOTE: The air conditioner must be unplugged for the automatic filter clean timer to reset.

Clean the filter. See the Care and Cleaning section in your use&care manual. After cleaning, replace the filter and plug the air conditioner back in.

check the fan blade to make sure it is tight on shaft. also check to see if any of the fins are bent could be that they are hitting the housing of the fan motor.

turbo whistle is common as it comes from the tips of the compressor wheel passing through the sound barrier and the turbulence occurs. IN the older trucks you would the turbo whistle as the engine reached full RPM just before a gear change. In smaller engine it is not do noticeable as there is an excess of air pressure that keeps the compressor wheel at a lower rpm and the pressure is dumped out. Turbo compressors reach revolutions in excess of 120.000 rpm under full load If it has just started to make the noise then check the intercooler system for leaks--loose clamps--- splits - Have the turbo compressor checked for damaged fins from the ingress of fine dirt from a bad air filter---check the air filter is not blocked as the turbo speed may result from running in a partial vacuum ( no load on the compressor wheel)

turbos generate boost fro the heat in the exhaust and the free flow of exhaust gases. That means the amount of fuel through the injectors and blocked cat converter or exhaust system. OK now you know how the boost is generated look for areas that will loose the pressure (boost ) between the turbo and the manifold Look for loose boost hose clamps on the turbo and intercooler and intercooler and manifold. Look for cracks or holes in intercooler. Look for blocked air cleaner as turbos use more air through the air cleaner than normal. Finally look at the compressor blade of the turbo as any bent fin will slow down the turbo wheel giving less boost. Have the turbo tested for correct operation

Have you checked the heater plugs? if one is out it will be hard to start. Does it run sweet and clean when warmed up?

hi check around the engine bay for any hoses that have come off, or check the compressor wheel on the turbo hasnt blown to peices on the turbo by removing the air filter pipe or the exaust

this information is available from the manufacturer engineering department

I would guess the popping/cracking goes away when the picture is present. Sounds like a high voltage arc either withing the tube or due to a cracked component in the high voltage circuit. If it's the tube, then the question is: how old is the set and is it worth it to sink $$$ into it as opposed to putting the same into another unit. If it is a defective component, that's much easier/cheaper to repair. Again, age of the set, etc. I hope this helps; definitly a repair for a pro.