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Mini max 400 will not fire, I have power light on and stat light on only. I have 29 vac coming in on the circuit board and on the pin below but nothing leaving.

Posted by kevin on

  • Anonymous Apr 05, 2020

    it is not a computer why post to here
    and not to gym equipment. ?



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My mini max 400 does not fire up when I turn it on the light is on

check ignitor ohms should be 75 ohms if shorted no good if open no good if ignitor lights see if you have 24 volts to gas valve if not could be safety circuit

Jan 30, 2014 | Pool & Spa

1 Answer

When I turn my mini max plus 400 heater on it clicks then nothing happens, what's up with that

If it is clicking it is trying to fire (calling for heat). This indicates that the internal safety loop Tstat, and IID are working. It is either a bad gas valve, your ignition wire, or lack of gas. If the gas line had been open for servicing for any length of time it can take a while for all the air to get out. Best call out a tech to do the repair, you are literally playing with fire.

May 15, 2012 | Pentair Minimax NT Heater

1 Answer

I have several computers at home, and none og them can recognize this portable device. Hitachi 250 GB Mod: SDM/250RW

1) Power:

It may be the problem that occurs with a lot of USB powered devices jrherrer. Not enough power provided.

The USB cable plugged into the computer, provides signal wires for transferring information back, and forth, and also provides 5 Volts DC for power. (Two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC)

[ Below shows the Signal pins, and the Voltage pins of the USB B Mini style connector, (Male), used to connect to the SimpleDrive Mini external harddrive,

Pin 1 is for the 5 Volts DC Positive (Wire color - Red)
Pin 2 is for the D- Signal (Wire color - White)
Pin 3 is for the D+ Signal (Wire color - Green)
Pin 4 is not connected. (Or sometimes joined to Pin 5 with a Resistor)
Pin 5 is for the Ground (Wire color - Black)

Just added info in case you wanted to know ]

From what I see the SDM/250RW has a USB port on the side, and a DC Power Jack, used for an AC adapter, also.
(Round port with a pin in the center)$file/SD_Mini_DS_final.pdf

From what I see stated from Hitachi, and sellers on the 'net, the AC adapter may not be provided.
Many of those who provide a review state that both the USB cable, and the AC adapter is needed to provide enough power. Seems to be a power hungry external harddrive

It's a 2.5 Hitachi SATA laptop harddrive inside that external case. (The Harddrive is 2 and a half inches across in Width. Common size used for laptops)

When using an external device powered by a USB cable there are general guidelines to follow,
A) The USB cable should not be more than 2 feet in length
B) Connect the device directly to your computer, instead of through a hub, or other device, unless the USB hub has it's own power.

2) USB cable:

Could be a faulty USB cable, although I imagine you have tried different ones by now.

3) Interface Circuit Board:

The Hitachi SATA 2.5 harddrive inside the SImpleDrive Mini SDM/250RW, plugs into a small circuit board located inside that external case.

Components on the circuit board may be fried, or the Harddrive may have come loose from the interface.

Loose from the interface
To explain;
The back of the harddrive has connector pins sticking out.
The interface has socket holes which the pins insert into.

Faulty circuit board
The external case of the SimpleDrive Mini SDM/250RW can be carefully opened up, and the Hitachi SATA 2.5 harddrive extracted out.

Another inexpensive external case for a 2.5 SATA harddrive can be procured, and the Hitachi harddrive put in it.

Example of a 2.5 SATA external enclosure,

Nov 22, 2010 | Hitachi SimpleDrive Mini 250GB USB 20...

1 Answer

What type of video card can I use on this motherboard? D945GZIS AGP? PCI? PCI EXPRESS?

Your MoBo has (1) of each PCI Express x1 & and PCI Express x16 slots, and (2) standard PCI slots. There are NO AGP bus slots on this board. You'd want to use buy a PCI Express x16 video card instead of a PCI video card due to the better performance offered by the PCI Express cards.

The full details of your motherboard are below:

Product Description The Intel Desktop Board D946GZIS delivers an integrated graphics solution in the Essential Series by combining exceptional value with quality and reliability and supports Intel Core2 Duo, Intel Pentium D, Intel Pentium 4, and Intel Celeron D processors with 1066/800/533 MHz system bus in the LGA775 package. This board features a PCI Express x16 connector, integrated 10/100 LAN, dual-channel DDR2 memory, Intel High Definition Audio (Intel HD Audio) and up to eight USB 2.0 ports.
Processor Model: D946GZIS Chipset Type: Intel 946GZ Express Processor Socket: LGA775 Socket Installed Qty (Max Supported): 0 ( 1 ) BIOS Type: Intel Storage Controler: ATA-100
Memory RAM Installed ( Max ): 0 MB / 4 GB (max) Supported RAM Speed: PC2-4300, PC2-5300 RAM Features: Unbuffered, dual channel memory architecture
Audio Audio Output: Sound card Sound Output Mode: 5.1 channel surround Compliant Standards: High Definition Audio
Expansion / Connectivity Expansion Slot(s): 1 PCI Express x1, 1 PCI Express x16, 1 processor - LGA775 Socket, 2 PCI, 2 memory ( 1.8 V ) - DIMM 240-pin Interfaces: 4 x Hi-Speed USB - 4 pin USB Type A, 1 x serial - RS-232 - 9 pin D-Sub (DB-9), 1 x parallel - IEEE 1284 (EPP/ECP) - 25 pin D-Sub (DB-25), 1 x display / video - VGA - 15 pin HD D-Sub (HD-15), 1 x network - Ethernet 10Base-T/100Base-TX - RJ-45, 1 x audio - line-in - mini-phone stereo 3.5 mm, 1 x audio - line-out - mini-phone stereo 3.5 mm, 1 x microphone - input - mini-phone 3.5 mm, 1 x storage - floppy interface - 34 pin IDC, 1 x keyboard - generic - 6 pin mini-DIN (PS/2 style), 1 x mouse - generic - 6 pin mini-DIN (PS/2 style)

Nov 03, 2010 | Intel D915GAV Motherboard

1 Answer

Doesn't fire up all the time

Hello, I have to say you did good. That's the first thing I was taught many years ago, was to listen to the customers complaint is always #1 on the list, and go to the t-stat. I check them first by taking them out of the equation before replacing, but you did what most would do, LOL. Just to give you some things to check on you're own that may solve this problem.I didn't find much on the Internet on this model, just that it is a gas fired unit.If it comes down to it, I may need more information from you on what the unit looks like when you remove the front control panels, burner panels ect? That way It will be much help in solving this problem, and if this is an automatic ignitor, with a control board with led lights on it, or has a ignitor module box and a glow or hot surface ignitor on it? Sounds like it has a mind of its own.If you have to turn it off then on again to get it to fire, it does sound as though the stat is acting up. But you replaced it and still have the same problem.If you did this without turning the power off, you may have shorted out the internal heat anticipator.If power was off, and I see this a lot, just because it is new doesn't mean it is operating properly. The reason I am talking about the t-stat is, it sounds like this is where the problem is. As the temperature dips below setpoint, there is a temp sensor built into this stat that senses this and calls for heat. R to W should close and then on a delay, R to G will close bringing on the blower fan.It would be hard for me to explain to you on how this heat anticipator works, but if shorted it will cause the contacts not to close, just intermitently and could be a problem. If you have the manual, it will tell you about it and it comes from factory set to .04amps. This is the standard setting.It needs to match the amperage on you're gas valve and you do not have the knoledge to do this. I have confidence as you did install this stat that you can check some things. If you can get to the furnace, turn off power and if the t-stat terminates at a circuit board, tighten all of the connections. You should have 4 to 5 connections or wires from stat. R is 24 volts hot. W or white is heat. G or green is Fan, and yellow or Y is for cooling. Sometimes they will use Blue for cooling. If you have a piece of insulated wire laying around, I will tell you how to bypass the thermostat at the furnace to see if it fires up and runs each time.Find where the stat wires are terminated, circuit board, or wire nutted together in the unit.Make sure you know how they connect back together, draw you a pic, or write colors down. You may have more then one wire going to a terminal on a board for the outdoor unit.Anyway, kill power first. Disconnect all the wires that come from stat to furnace.This way, stat and wires from stat are out of the circuit or picture. Now, if you have a circuit board, turn power on and hold and touch the Red and W or white with jumper.It may spark, but its fine only 24 volts.Furnace will fire up and after a delay, fan will come on. After it comes on, remove jumper and let it cycle down.Do this several times. If it works each time, kill power and reconnect wires.After making sure all wiring from stat to furnace is good clean and tight, try to set it tonight. If you continue to have this problem, I would take this stat back and get a good one! Be sure you kill power to stat when replacing it.If this does not do it, we will go into it deeper. You will need to give me more info.Try these things and I know you will be able to do this, very easy, and let me know the out come tomorrow morning. I will wait for you're reply. Good Luck,
PS On the stat, it should have a red jumper on it.Leave it in place. RH to RC. Red Goes there, w to w, g to g, and y to y.

Dec 16, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

No display lights

Make sure you have 24 volts coming from the transformer...Alot cheaper part.

Jun 01, 2009 | Pentair Minimax NT Heater

1 Answer

Gta cheats

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Apr 22, 2009 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Weatherking control board

the fan comes on only after the burner fires. so no stat voltage is expected. it is not powering the blower, the elec board is. only after burner lights will fan be energized due to heat build up. usually on older weatherking there is a heat sensor on the bulhead above the burners. it is stuck sounds like to me. try a sharp rap on the right side about four feet up the side and a foot back . if fan stops you know the switch was stuck . probably needs a new fan switch.

Oct 20, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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