Yes there is a way to hard reset it, unplug the unit for 5 full minutes to hard reset it.
https://www.justanswer.com/appliance/9qr0g-hard-reset-maytag-epic-washer.html
Full Reset
Disconnect the power to the Maytag dryer and wait 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, restore power and make a new selection. If the problem persists or the dryer will not operate, disconnect power once again and call Maytag for service.
https://www.hunker.com/13410587/do-maytag-dryers-have-reset-buttons
SOURCE: maytag epic
hi there,
the FH error means it's either you have a drain problem if there is water in it or if if there is now water in it, make sure that both water inlets are turned all the way up. check to make sure that you don't have any water leaks anywhere visible.
SOURCE: MAYTAG EPIC FRONTLOAD WASHER NOT DRAINING
The filter is in the front on this one. Under the door, there is another panel. There are 3 screws that a 1/4" nut driver takes off pretty easily. Get a bowl and bucket. There is a white screw cap that you should easily see. Open it slowly with the bowl underneath. Close it again when the bowl is filled and dump the bowl into the bucket. Repeat until no more water comes out then unscrew it completely. Clean out the trap and replace. There is a stop that prevents you from overtightening. See if that works. A six dollar nutdriver is easier and cheaper than any repairman.
SOURCE: Maytag Epic Z front loading washer spin cycle very loud
your bearings and seal need to be replaced.
SOURCE: Maytag Epic-Z F-28 error code
F28 is a misc error,
most of the time it is because the washer is NOT LEVEL.
1. Unplug waher,
2. Relevel washer. (make sure all legs are equally distributing weight, so as to ensure no shaking). See owner's manual.
3. Plug in, and use.
Hope this helps.
Jay
SOURCE: Maytag Epic z washer will not start just flashed
This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.
"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.
To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:
Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms
Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.
Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
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