Ikea IX7DDEXDSM01 fridge defrost cycle not working. I can put the fridge in service mode and select steps to run but I can't find what the steps and diagnostics codes are anywhere!

Fridge has a defrost cycle where it melts the built up ice on the fins of the cooling system in the freezer. They don't run the compressor motor while the fridge is in defrosting mode. It may be that it is stuck in the defrost cycle so it lights but does not run. You will need to dig around for specific information about your model to see where to go next but this might give you a lead.

have you checked the door switch for each door? the lights should still work in defrost mode but not fans or compressor.

You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

You refrigerator was made by Frigidaire Adaptive Defrost Controls Frigidaire Refrigerator Trouble Shooting and Diagnosing
On the initial plugin, or when power is restored to the fridge after a power outage:
If terminating thermostat is open, the fridge enters a compressor (cooling) cycle.
If the terminating thermostat is closed, the first defrost cycle occurs 1 hour
after initial plug-in.
Maximum defrost cycle time is 24 minutes.
Minimum time between defrost cycles is 6 hours. (compressor runtime)
Maximum normal clock time between defrost cycles is 12 hours.
Maximum time between defrost cycles (in "vacation" mode) is 72 hours.
Vacation mode is not entered unless the door has not been opened in at least 24 hours.
Note that the ADC will only enter the defrost mode if the terminating thermostat is closed. If the terminating thermostat is open when defrost is initiated, the ADC board will wait for six minutes and then return to the cooling mode.
ASSUMING that the fridge has been on and running,
and the terminating thermostat is closed,
defrost is initiated by pressing the door (light) switch
at least five times within six seconds.
The defrost heater should start heating up within 8 seconds.
If the above procedure caused the heater to heat up, the ADC board is probably bad; replace it.
If the defrost heater does not heat up, test the defrost heater, terminating thermostat and cold control for continuity as follows:
Unplug the fridge from the wall. Unplug the ADC board from its connector.
Test the connector for continuity between the following leads:
Defrost Heater = DEF TERM (blue) to DEF OUT (brown).
Terminating Thermostat = DEF TERM (blue) to NEUTRAL (lt blue).
Cold Control = COLD CONTROL (orange) to L1 (black).
Replace the defective component.

Sounds like you have a defrost problem which is evident by your description.
Try putting freezer into defrost and see what happens.

To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.

Your automatic defrost cycle may not be working. Feel the walls inside and if they are hard solid you have ice build up and the fan is hitting the walls or ice making the noise. Unplug your fridge for 2 days and let the ice in the walls melt. Put towels on floor to catch water. Plug it back in and it should run fine for a couple of weeks until the ice builds up again. You have a bad timer and it isn't letting the defrost cycle come on. Defrost cycle are heating elements that melt the ice build up and runs about 10 mins once a day or so. This will give you time to check if an afforable repair can be done or a replacement fridge.

I have some information on your model and that would involve forced defrost by the service manual page 28 at bottom. How old is your Samsung? Forced Operation Function (Pull-down / Refrigerator Defrost / Refrigerator . Freezer-Defrost / Cancellation)
● This function enables a pull-down mode, a defrost mode for the refrigerator only, a defrost mode for the freezer and the
refrigerator at the same time, and a cancellation of this function.
● Press Power Freeze and Fridge Temp. buttons for 8 seconds simultaneously to get in the ready mode for a forced
operation.
● The display panel will return to normal after 20 seconds in the ready mode.
● At the ready mode, press any button(except Ice Type and Child Lock) once to start a pull-down operation, twice for a
defrost cycle for the refrigerator, three times for a defrost cycle for the freezer and the refrigerator, and finally four times
for cancellation of this function.
● Another way to cancel this function is to simply plug out and in the power cord.
1) Pull-down
1-1) At the ready mode, press any button once then the buzzer will beep (ON for 1/2 second and OFF for 1/2 second)
until this mode is cancelled.
1-2) At this pull-down mode, the compressor will start immediately (No 5 minute delay) and if the system is in the
defrost cycle, it will be cancelled right away.
note) If this pull-down mode begins right after the compressor was off, the compressor may not start to run due to an
overload condition.
1-3) At this mode, the compressor and freezer fan will operate continuously for 24 hours and the refrigerator fan will be
on and off according to the set temperature(34℉)
1-4) After 24 hour operation, the system will be cycled at -14℉ for the freezer and 34℉ for the refrigerator.
1-5) In order to cancel this mode at any time, select the next mode on the ready mode or power off the system.
2) Refrigerator Defrost / Refrigerator . Freezer-Defrost operation
2-1) At the pull-down mode, press any button again on the ready mode to begin the defrost cycle for the refrigerator.
2-2) The beep sound continues for 3 second at the beginning, then ON for 3/4 seconds and OFF for 1/4 second until
this mode cease.
2-3) After this operation, the system will come back to normal operation.
2-4) At this mode, press any button again on the ready mode to operate the defrost cycles for both compartments.
2-5) The beep sound continues for 3 seconds at that time, then ON for 1/4 second and OFF for 3/4 seconds until the
defrost operation cease.
3) Cancellation
3-1) At the R,F-Defrost mode, press ant button again on the ready mode to return to a normal operation.
3-2) Simply unplug the power cord, then plug it again to return to a normal operation.
Press both button for 8seconds at the same time Send maual in one moment, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Your freezer is not reaching the target temperature to produce ice - obviously your whole unit is not cooling properly - first thing to do is shut it off unplug it and remove the back panel from the freezer and look for ice buildup and overfrost on the evaporator - this is a classic symptom and will cause cooling problems - manually, using a hair dryer, melt the ice and frost from the evap until everything is cleared up and drips into the drain down the drip pan - once everything is cleared up put back the panel and turn everything on - allow a couple of hours for things to cool up - if it cools normally, then your problem relates to a faulty defrost system in which case you would need to have it serviced and replace one of the defrost timer components (control board, element, etc.)
Set one of these special refrigerator thermostats (not the mercury ones, but I use the round gauges) put one in freezer one in refrigerator and after couple of hours monitor the temps. Freezer should not be warmer than 10F - normally 0F, but optimal temps are -10F (and also if you want hard icecream) -10F allows faster recovery in case of outages. For refrigerator no warmer than 40F - you want optimal to be 34F.

You want to also make sure your evaporator fan motor is spinning and look for any door gasket leaks.

If, after checking your evaporator fan and coils for frost, and door gaskets and you notice your unit is not cooling properly and your compressor is running continuously without cycling off, then next step would be to check the condenser and clean the excess dust (which traps the heat) if your condensers are at the bottom and they are clean, then make sure the condenser fan at the back / bottom of your unit is running.

If all fails, then the last thing (rare) would be a sealed system leak, in which case you will need to get it serviced and it will cost you a lot of money.

If you notice your compressor cycling off before the target cooling temps, then raise your cooing knob at higher temps, if it works then your thermostat is out of calirbation.

If everything cools normally after you've defrosted manually then the problem relates to a defrost problem - in which case you will need to get it serviced and have the control board checked and defrost timer components.

If your freezer is cooling normally and not your refrigerator section, then check for any obstruction of the vents, door gaskets and if you have one, the damper flap not opening wide enough or at all to let cool air in, if applicable to your model.

best of luck.

Likely defrost mode, which on older models runs for a fixed amount of time whether needed or not.

The motor that times the cycle may be stuck or running slowly. It often is located at the bottom front of the frig behind a cover that runs between the front legs. Unscrew it and you will see a small motor running, that, through gears, turns a wheel 1 rotation every 24 hours.

The wheel can also be turned by a screwdriver - turn it until you hear a click that indicates defrost cycle is off. Should solve the problem short-term.

Long term, replace the faulty motor or clean it off to run smoothly. Alternately, unplug the motor so that defrost never kicks in automatically and defrost it manually.