Question about Carrier Heating & Cooling
Honeywell VisionPro TH8110R1008 controlling a Carrier FA4ANF018 electric furnace/AC. As best I can recollect, the sequence of events went like this: Furnace was working normally. Thermostat was set at 70. Turned temperature on thermostat down to 67 and left the apartment. Didn't notice if furnace was running or not at the time, nor if it was running and shut off when I lowered the temp. Came back an hour later. Furnace was running and temp was up to 72 degrees. Thermostat looked normal. No indication of low batteries. Tried turning the system off on the thermostat. Furnace continued to run. Nothing on the thermostat would affect the furnace. Eventually turned off the circuit breaker (for the apartment electrical, not the breaker on the furnace) to stop furnace. Waited. Turned breaker on. Furnace stayed off. Batteries failed in thermostat and screen went dark with barely readable failing battery message. Put in new batteries. Thermostat fired up but still wouldn't control the furnace. Switched to cooling. AC went on. Couldn't turn AC off. Had to turn breaker off again. Turned breaker on. Thermostat displayed "Wait" message when I tried turning on the furnace. Waited half an hour. Wait message disappeared. Still can't turn furnace on. Slid out lithium backup battery and slid back. Thermostat makes appropriate click sounds as if it is turning the furnace on or off, but furnace doesn't respond. Equipment Status screen shows furnace on or off depending on thermostat settings. Set thermostat to System Off. Checked breaker on side of furnace. Was off. Turned on. Turned temp up on thermostat. Thermostat clicked, but furnace did not go on.
SOURCE: Heater won't shut off.
you say you hear a click. this indicates the relay is opening and closing, BUT the contacts may have welded itself shut. try replacing the relay - contactor.
Posted on Nov 15, 2007
One of two things you can try. Do you own a volt ohm meter? Anytime your unit cycles short like it is doing the control circuit which on this one is 24 volts that engages relays and controls the gas valve to open and close. I am thinking the heat exchanger is getting so hot it is tripping the upper limit which for the most part is around 180 degrees. So next time it turns off take your ohm meter and with the power to the whole unit off. Either turn the breaker off or there is a light switch that is real close to unit turn it off. Undo the two wires to the gas valve and ohm them out. You should have continuity if you get nothing check each limit switch should have a couple. Undo wires to them and check. If you find one that is open more then likely the upper one. They are a safety device that keeps the unit from getting too hot.
There might be another option increase the speed of your fan motor to get the heat out of furnace quicker. Look at the circuit board notice the fan wiring going to it. The Red wire from fan is low speed look to see if it is on HEAT on the board. You should have 4 speeds to pick from you could take the black off of COOL and swap wires and test the unit by doing that. I'm going to put a solution on this so I can come back to it quicker. Even though we a just testing it for now. ken
Posted on Dec 21, 2008
SOURCE: Code 32 when wind blows
Hi and welcome to Fixya. I believe that the wind is affecting the draft. What I would recommend is to install a cap on the flue that is similar to a weather vane in that it rotates to block the wind from creating a downdraft in the flue. Some times depending on the direction and strength of the wind it will come up over the roof peak and then down the flue. A regular fixed cap may work too. You should be able to purchase one at your local hardware store. Please let me know if this was helpful. Good luck.
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
If the thermostat is a digital /programmable you may want to recheck program to see if it has changed or been changed. If thermostat is not digital then it is prbably warn out and need replaced.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
Could be that the compressor is locked up or either start components are bad..... need to get an AMP gauge and see what the AMP draw is when you hear the compressor try to start which is the click, Hmmmm, click your hearing,
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
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