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I have a. Proxxon table saw FET. I like the size and convenience but when I plug in in, all the exposed metal areas have static electricity. I am unable to touch these areas while using it.

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Larry Ng

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  • The Master
  • 6,016 Answers

The top of the saw plate is aluminum, and is grounded to the 3 wire ground on the power cord that means it is grounded
but in cold weather (is it) and at near 0% humidity, in the shop or home, the HUMAN is charged up (the ageless, doorknob spark zap effect)
here as some cures.. (lots there are) and is called ESD..
electro static discharge.
1: where leather sole shoes. not sneakers , rubber soles..
2: buy this cute key fob discharge device,
as seen at wally world.
https://www.walmart.com/search/?query=anti-static%20keychain

touch top of tool first. to this device tip, and the resistor inside turn the zap to harmless heat.
cure 3: is shop humidifier. $$$$$
cure 4: wear at grounded tin foil hat, all the time, (1/2 pun and not)
cure 5: wear an ankle ESD protectors.(to floor) best on concrete or high carbon tiles.. (like used in Silicon CHIP foundries.)

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Anti+Static+ESD+Adjustable+Foot+Strap+Heel+electronic+Discharge+Band&_sacat=0

Posted on Feb 18, 2020

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: craftsman table saw

Alright, I have fixed mine, so maybe the same thing will work for two as well. I actually have a slightly different model (113.298341) but I imagine the electronics follow the same basic layout. FYI, I got a manual online through Sears for free.

Mine has a manual reset thermal overload protector to keep from burning up the more expensive stuff. It is the red "reset" button near the main switch that ought to pop out if it gets too hot, and can only be pushed back in when the machine is back down to a safe operating temp. I overloaded my machine, and the protector broke the circuit, BUT the button did not pop out and I therefore couldn't just push it back in. I took out the protector, and although it looked like the circuit should be closed, there was no conductance through the protector. I took off the tiny bolt on the back of the protector, essentially jostled the thing a little, replaced the bolt, and conductance is now restored. I re-installed the protector, replaced the front cover, and now she works like a charm.

So maybe these reset switches often don't act like they are supposed to? I'd recommend just checking everything in the line, beginning with the main power line in. it will contain three wires: the ground will be bolted to the frame, the others will run to the main switch and the relay, respectively. With the machine plugged in, touch your volt meter probes to the contacts on the way INTO the switch and relay, and you should have 120V. Then, check the switch by turning it to the ON position with the machine plugged in, leaving one probe on the IN contact of the relay, and moving the other to the OUT contact of the switch. Again, you'll get 120V if the switch is working correctly. Alternatively, you could just check conductance through the switch directly w/o involving the relay contact, either way is fine.

Next in line is the thermal switch, which was my issue. Unplug the machine and/or turn off the main switch (I do both, no point taking risks). You'll need to unscrew the switch, which is a black plastic cylinder about an inch in diameter with the red reset button on it, and check for conductance by probing the wires leading into and out of the back of the black plastic cylinder. If you don't get conductance, you're in the same boat as me, and try to fiddle with the bolt and restore conductance. Otherwise, it might be the relay or the capacitor on down the line. If not those, your motor might be shot, but we'll hope thats not the ca$e.

Hope this helps guys, I was really surprised that it turned out to be such an easy fix, you just need a screwdriver, a 3/16 wrench (for the bolt on the switch), and a voltmeter that tests up to 120V and can test for conductance. One thing to be very careful of is the large capacitor in the control box. I just stayed away from it, but I would seek further advice on how to test it if you need to. After taking apart a couple of cameras as a kid, I know not to mess around with those things. Otherwise, just use the same good sense you should bring to any fix involving 120V of electricity and a 10 inch steel blade.

Posted on Sep 06, 2008

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MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: my microwave turntable is scrubing

The floor will have to be sanded smooth and clean and dried thoroughly.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

I would then leave the door open to let it dry untouched overnight.

You didn't mention your oven's brand or model, but it may be that the wheels on the turntable support are worn or there may grease built up in the axles.

Or you may need a new turntable support.

If you need to order a new one, please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help point you to the proper distributor.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

falspet

Fal Mueller

  • 438 Answers

SOURCE: i have a lincoln 225 welder and when you plug a

the first thing with this situation is be vary careful this can KILL,
insure that the ground contact to your welder is of good quality, you might have a voltage induced in the metal frame of your welder by the large transformer(inductor) used to modify the voltage/current to a value you can weld with, with a good ground this will not happen, if the ground contact is poor, and you repair the contact, plug it in and it trips the barker, your welder is faulty by way of the primary coil in the inductor contacting the metal body of the welder, this is not worth repairing, also look for any wires that may have worn off its insulation and are contacting the mettle frame of the welder, a good ground will save your life, insure that all your power tools that have a 3 wire cord have a ground contact. good luck and always be safe

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

Anonymous

  • 949 Answers

SOURCE: Was cleaning inside of microwave and noticed the

Hi Bonnie,

Do not use the microwave with the exposed metal surface.

What you can do is pick up some appliance touch up paint, it comes in a small plastic bottle with a brush. It looks similar to fingernail polish. It should be available at an appliance store such as Sears, Lowes, Home Depot etc.

Clean the area good and use sandpaper or steel wool if needed to make sure the area is smooth and clean. Then use the touch up paint to recoat the surface. Let dry before using the microwave oven, usually a couple hours or so.

Posted on May 01, 2010

Testimonial: "Many thanks for such a quick reply and solution. Bonnie"

MicrowaveSvc

William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: Paint has bubbled and chipped off in microwave

Apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 19, 2010

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This particular model is known to be prone to static electricity.
You may try first to reset the radio by taking all the power sources off, including AC power, the D batteries, and the AA batteries. Leave it without any power for a day (at least 12 hours, but 24 hours would be better).
This would cause a processor reset. Plug the power sources after 24 hours and check it out.
If that doesn't bring it back to life, then you may have to open it and do some more involved work (if you are handy with soldering and replacing electronic parts).
Usually the sensitive part that gets fried by static electricity and causes your issue is the Q1 transistor, which is a field effect transistor (FET).
Most likely your FET Q1 is a Sony product which maybe labeled as 2SK152. It's out of production, but you may find it at some major electronics outlets, such as Mouser Electronics.
There should be some equivalent FET out somewhere (RadioShack, perhaps?), if this particular one is not found.
Replacing the FET should be an easy job after you have opened the cover (5 screws), and unscrewed the board.
Just be careful not to cause further damage by static electricity from your body (wear a grounded static discharge strap), and be very careful handling the board.
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