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Ron Walker Posted on Feb 07, 2020
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My HVAC system tries to come on. The coil heats up, but then the fan doesn't come on. The only capacitors (two) are outside with the heat pump. The circuit board c800796p01 has a solid green light.

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J Rosado

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  • Heating & Co... Master 1,202 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2020
J Rosado
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Joined: Oct 13, 2011
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A capacitor to a motor, outdoor unit has two motors, a fan and compressor motors. Indoor unit has a fan motor and a capacitor for it. Check the wiring diagrams.
Coil heats up? meaning contactor solenoid coil gets power? or, compressor starts up and radiator coil temp. heats up?
of the three motors, two outside and one inside, does one motor not work? if so, will need to check for power at motor leads and capacitor

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 290 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 20, 2007

SOURCE: Ruud heat pump outside unit trips circuit breaker

Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.

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Anonymous

  • 540 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 23, 2008

SOURCE: KELVINATOR KSR20C

One might think so, YES! look on one of the door panels that you can remove! Thank-you-very-much!

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 22, 2008

SOURCE: Heat pump trips circuit breaker

i want to know the size of breaker to use.we are using a 30,30,30,30but it is kicking off.would a 40,40,40,40or higher be better if they sell them.

Anonymous

  • 1515 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 13, 2010

SOURCE: when the unit is in heat mode is the fan on the

Hi, and the outdoor condenser fan should not be on at all in the heat mode unless this is a heat-pump!! So, I can see that this is a 3-ton Carrier split system and I haven't pulled up any information on it, only if I need to. But if the indoor unit runs on natural gas/propane, this would not be a heat-pump and the outdoor fan would run only in the cooling cycle. So, if it is not gas fired it is a heat-pump, and yes the outdoor unit should be up and running all year around. On a heat-pump you will have what is called a reversing valve in the refrigerant system that directs the flow of freon in the right direction for the season you are in. Most all heat-pumps will have a heat strip package installed in unit for emergency and aux. heat if compressor lets say fails. You're thermostat will have on it a selector switch, you will see on it these labels, Aux., emergency heat, auto/on/off/heat/cool. You will know from what I have just went through with you what you have. Forgive me for such a long explanation as I like my customers to understand more about there units in question. I could have just said yes or no and thanks? Doesn't work like that for me. I hope this has helped you out. One thing, If you determine this is a heat-pump and the fan is not on when in heat, you may have lost this condenser fan motor? You say both run caps. were replaced, and normally when you loose a run cap for a motor they will open internally, leak, buldge ect. So if this is taking place, if you can yourself take a look at the run cap. Also, make sure you have 220 volts to condensing unit. If not, check breaker probably a 30 amp double pole to see if it has tripped. You will have a disconnect box at the unit and inside there will also be 2 fuses. If you see only a pull out square connect, the fuses are still there but in behind the cover. If you have power and can hear the compressor come on but fan does not, I am positive you will have A faulty run cap, or faulty motor. Kill power to unit and try and slide a metal coat hanger down to prop or blade to see if it spins freely. If it is hard to turn bearings are froze up. If the capacitor seems to look ok, and the motor does spin free, It still may have open windings. Do these checks I have asked of you on power to the outdoor unit. If all is good, Stand in front of the unit and have someone turn the stat on for what season you are in. Lower or raise temp a ways above or below room temp. You should her the contactor close and compressor will start along with the condenser motor.If compressor starts and motor does not, then I would say it has failed and or cap again. When a motor is replaced, the run cap must always be replaced to!! Please get back to me and keep me posted. I will wait to hear what has happened. Good Luck.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Bill Long

  • 606 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 10, 2010

SOURCE: Gold Star mini split heat pump 24,000

On a heat pump the difference from heat to cool is the reversing valve.
In cooling or heating the Y1 terminal will always be energized, this is the contactor.
Depending on brand the reversing valve will either be energized in Heat or Cool. At the outdoor unit check to see if the reversing valve is getting 24 volts in cool, if not check to see if it is getting 24 volts in heating. The easiest way to check if the reversing valve is shifting, is to feel the big copper tube, (it is not the suction line on a heat pump) this is a refrigerant vapor line. It will be cold in cooling and hot in heating.
Check your thermostat installation instructions and heat pump installation instructions to determine the proper terminal designations for your heat pump and thermostat. There are some brands out there that use the B terminal as common to the 24 volt circuit, so you have to check the wiring and make sure this is not common.
If it is energized in Cool then the Y1 and O terminal will be energized. You will have 24 volts from common usually the C terminal to Y1 and O.
If it’s energized in Heat then the Y1 and B terminal should be energized. You will have 24 volts from common usually the C terminal to Y1 and B.
If you get heat when you’re calling for cooling or vice versa then switch the wire between the B and O terminals.

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