What grade bolts do i use for my fifth wheel hitch I need the bolt grade length and size how many and how many washers

You would need a parts diagram for that specific vehicle to identify each bolt, generally you need a dealership parts catalogue.

It seems overwhelming but it's just a small puzzle. We used to call this a "basket" case.

You are going to need a specific amount of bolts that are the same for each group. Separate the bolts you have into piles of similar lengths and sizes.

Of course you will need to try each bolt hole by hand to prevent installing the wrong threads as well as making sure the bolts you use are the correct length. By determining the length and size you should narrow you hunt down. FOR EXAMPLE: you will need 3 here of the same size and length, 5 there that are long and 2 short, 4 there, etc., Just like you identified the long mount bolt. You can also identify where bolt heads were installed by size and the imprint left from where they were removed.

It's not really that difficult since the bolts are always different lengths and sizes, just don't put a long bolt into a short hole. (measure with a small screwdriver to get the length and make sure your bolt is never longer than the room available and the threads fit.)

Good luck!

what is your question
you know the length and you have stated the size as 10 mm ( thread diameter) with a 1.0 mm pitch
what else do you want to know
the M10 is a grade of bolt equal to grade 7 or engineering grade in tensile strength

I take it you have lost all the original bolts. Best trick would be to measure the approx size of the holes and get a few close sizes from hardware store (grade 5 or better). Test each until you find correct thread pitch (should be coarse). Next, measure total depth of hole and thickness of bell housing and select bolt with washer that lacks 1/8th to 1/4 of bottoming out.

Torx? Weird, I'd go into a hardware store and get a GRADE 8 bolt that matches up with the length and thread pitch. Grade 8 is automotive grade and much stronger than standard bolts used for building materials.

take out a close bolt (same area)and take it to a bolt /fastener shop. They will be able to measure the size and thread and will supply a bolt to the correct grade requirement;

its m14x2x50.30thd and washer is retained on bolt [part of bolt]best bet go to chevy-gmc-or caddy dealer for bolt their about $8 most auto stores dont carry the bolts

one inch to one and a quarter inches of threads protruding is plenty, just make sure that the bolt is at least a 10/9 grade steel. the grade is stamped on the head of the bolt.

no you reuse the old bolt and washer unless there to far gone or damaged.

No, but I would replace the rotors. Turning them usually winds up getting them warped as soon as they heat up and/or you hit a puddle of water..also, you will need a torque wrench and standard automotive tools, Jack and stands and a vice..

1 Place the Transfer shift in the 2H position.
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely on jackstands.
2 Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3 Loosen the hub to rotor retainer bolts.
4 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and carefully remove the caliper (along with the brake pads) from the rotor. Do not disconnect the brake line. 5 Secure the caliper out of the way with the flexible line still connected.

Once the hub/rotor is removed from the vehicle the wheel bearings may be cleaned and repacked or the bearings and races may be replaced. For more information, please refer to the wheel bearing procedures in General Information & Maintenance of this manual.

6 Remove the hub nut using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent.
7 Remove the hub cap assembly retainer bolts.
8 Remove the spindle nut, washers, and other components. Remove the hub/rotor, being careful not to drop the outer wheel bearings. As the hub/rotor is pulled forward, the outer wheel bearings will often fall forward.
9 Once the hub/rotor is removed, remove the retainer bolts securing the rotor and hub together. Inspect the hub and replace if needed.

To install:
1 With the rotor secured in a vise, attach the wheel hub to the rotor using the retainer bolts. Tighten the bolts to 47-58 ft. lbs. (61-75 Nm). Apply 2.12 oz. (60 gm) of grease to the hub before installing.
2 Carefully install the wheel hub/rotor over the spindle.
3 Install the bearings washers and other components. 4 Position the lock washer so the hub cap assembly bolt holes line up properly.
5 Install the spindle washer and nut and secure using hub wrench J-29020-A or equivalent. Preload the bearing to 3.31 lbs. (1.5 kg).
6 Install the inner cam and any shims. Install the hub cap assembly and secure in place with retainer bolts. 7 Tighten grade M8 bolts to 17-22 ft. lbs. (22-29 Nm), tighten grade M10 bolts to 40-47 ft. lbs. (52-61 Nm).
8 Install the brake caliper.
9 Install the tire and wheel assembly.
10 Remove the supports and carefully lower the vehicle.

Type: Bolt Dim: Length: Head: Hexagon Grade: 17 Ft-Lbs 204 In-Lbs 23.05 N-m Connects: Crankshaft To Connecting Rod Years: All Vote Record: Vote Note: FS - Rod Cap Bolts - 2 Step: 17FtLbs; +90deg Type: Bolt Dim: Length: Head: Hexagon Grade: 15 Ft-Lbs 180 In-Lbs 20.34 N-m Connects: Crankshaft To Engine Block Years: All Vote Record: Vote Note: FS - Main Bearing Cap Bolts - 2 Step: 15FtLbs; +90deg Type: Bolt Dim: Length: Head: Hexagon Grade: 72 Ft-Lbs 864 In-Lbs 97.62 N-m Connects: Crankshaft To Flywheel Years: All Vote Record: Vote Note: FS - Flywheel/Driveplate Bolts Type: Bolt Dim: Length: Head: Hexagon Grade: 120 Ft-Lbs 1440 In-Lbs 162.7 N-m Connects: Crankshaft To Pulley Years: All Vote Record: Vote Note: FS - Crankshaft Pulley Bolt