Question about Samsung Washing Machines
Possible check manufacter website for board calibration
Posted on Jan 24, 2020
What was the machine doing or not doing prior to the board replacement? During spin, was the unit "roaring like a freight train" or sounding like "a jet taking off"?
Posted on Jan 23, 2020
Possibly the main control board, or maybe the touchpad. Take the back off of the console and you'll find the tech sheet, it will walk you through the steps the test each.
Posted on Jul 18, 2008
E5E IS FOR Communication problem. THERE IS 100 %WIRE SHORTING SOMEWHERE.PLEASE CHECK OUT.
ALSO OTHER ERRORS Error code - Fault condition
E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem.
E44 Control board problem.
E45 Control board problem.
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 To much soap.
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
Your program controller unit is working but it must be ensured that there is output on every cycle to the desired output controls. So the inlet valve must work and the motor must run when the water level is triggered by the level controller. So use a meter to check before we can suspect the controller.
Posted on Nov 11, 2011
please see the causes with common sense, before to proceed to exchange some error parts. God bless you
Water Level Control / Pressure Switch
his is the most common reason a washer will agitate but not spin. To check this on most , with no water you should have continuity on pins 7&15. With the tub full 7&16 should have continuity. This video walks you thru checking another type of switch.
This can be the problem for the washer not spinning . Most whirlpool styles this will effect both agitate and spin but some models will still agitate but not spin.This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch.
To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem.
To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere.
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to thetransmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler.
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise theproblem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.
Posted on Sep 20, 2012
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