Question about Refrigerators

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Should the evaporator fan be running when you open the freezer door or always for that matter

Posted by Karen Durham-Dionisi on

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2 Answers

Andrew Taylor

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 33,350 Answers

Only switches off when defrosting otherwise it would quickly ice up.

Posted on Jan 13, 2020

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Vernon Taylor

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 6,660 Answers

Evaporator fan or just a fan designed to circulate the interior air to minimise temperature variations in the cabinet especially after the door has been opened?

The fan in my daughter's freezer starts when she opens the door and runs for a couple of minutes...

Posted on Jan 13, 2020

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: GE GSS22JEPA WW

This could be a sensor issue , that is what i would be changing in the first instance. The sensor connects into the same connector the vent door connects into.

Posted on Sep 02, 2008

MNTECH

Carl Schulzetenberg

  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: not cooling

Sometimes when the evaporator fan goes out, it takes part of the motherboard also. (part number WR55X10552, which also subs into a WR55X10656) If this is the case, I would not expect the refrig to be running either. (If your compressor still runs, check door switch.)

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

CongressmanT

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: My LG bottom freezer, french door evaporator fan

Defrost heaters are not coming on. Check with multi meter..is it frost, or ice freezing under the fan-blades. That my friend is a blocked drain hole. Otherwise ohm out defrost heater should read 30to69 ohms of resistance. Timer may be stuck, or a hi-temp safety switch is not closing (a small disc at the top of the coils) when it comes out of defrost. Carweful with that gun, Jim! Too much heat warps all that chinese plastic. Chris in bigbEar

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

Sea Breeze

John Tripp

  • 4656 Answers

SOURCE: Compressor & Evap. Fan both work for 12 hours then evap stops

I believe that because defrost is done by the mother control board this is why this is happening the part of the board that controls defrost is malfunctioning and the only way to resolve the problem is to replace the mother board part number WR55X10656 You can find the replacement board at these places below. Sea Breeze

http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/

http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/

Posted on Aug 25, 2009

Testimonial: "You were right, thanks for your help. The control board was bad. That is what I suspected, but I wanted a second opinion."

aasc

Mike Smith

  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator does not cool.

Ok , I'll help you .
Pull the refrig out from the wall , and unplug . Remove the 8 " X 10 " panel on the back of the refrig . Inside this panel , is the main control board .
Remove the blue plug with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the plug , you will see : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and remove about 1/4 inch of insulation , from both ends . Insert 1 end of the wire , into the slot of wire2 , and the other end , into wire3 .
Plug the refrig back in .
After about 2 min , look inside the freezer , behind the bottom crisper , and look for a red glow . This glow , is the defrost heater .
If no glow , this is an indication of a shorted defrost heater , or bad defrost thermostat , both of which are located behind the rear freezer panel . Unplug the refrig , and reinstall the blue connector , and the 8 x 10 panel .
The pt # for the heater is WR51X10101 , and the part number for the defrost bimetal is WR50X10068 . Both should be replaced . The heater is at the bottom of the coils , held on by 2 screws , and the thermostat , is clipped on the top right of the coils , with a blue and pink wire going to it .
If you do see a red glow , reasemble as above , and remove the rear inside freezer panel . At the top of the coils , on the left , you will see 2 white wires attached to a 1 " piece , which is clipped to the coils . This piece is the # 4 thermistor ( evaporator thermistor ) . Pt # WR55X10025 . Also replace the # 5 thermistor , ( freezer thermistor ) which is at the bottom of the panel , slid into a holder , also with 2 white wires going to it . Both thermistors , sent readings of temp , by coldness resistance , to the main control board , which then decides if it needs to defrost , or cycle off due to coldness reached .

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

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1 Answer

My Refridgerator is not cold (60*). When I open the freezer door I do hear something running. What could the problem be?


Is the freezer cold in the unit if the freezer is cold but thhe refrigerator is not you would next look at the air flow is the fan inside the freezer running there is a small fan located behind the rear panel inside the freezer you would remove this panel in order to access the evaporator coil and the evaporator fan as well. If you put your hand inside the rear of the refrigerator you should be able to feel air blowing through a small door. That small door is called a damper door and there is a control located in the ceiling of the refrigerator that controls the door. the control is attached to the control that you use if you wanted to make the refrigerator colder. Around this time of year as it gets hot I do find alot of these damper doors and damper door controls that go bad. Matter of fact I just had to change on out today at a customers location. If you have any further questions message me back also if you remove that rear panel inside the freezer to assure that the evaporator fan is running and you see any ice build up on the evaporator coils message me back on this as well this is known as a defrost issue and I would have to further instruct on how to alleviate the defrost issue. Also please remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future Thanks
Rick

Jun 29, 2011 | Kenmore Refrigerators

Tip

Replacing your evaporator fan.


Have you noticed that when you open the freezer door that you hear a fan running? That's the evaporator fan. When that fan motor goes bad, you'll notice that "the freezer works mostly OK, but the refrigerator/beer section is warm".

Now, this tip is listed for a top freezer but the technique is basically the same for a side by side or even bottom freezer models. Matter of fact, this tip is for all domestic makes and models EXCEPT for Amana (when an Amana evap fan fails, it's generally NOT the failure of the fan motor... 98% of the time the problem is the defrost limiter).

Before you replace the motor, you'll obviously need a new one. Look inside the refrigerator compartment for a "data sticker". Copy the model number off of that (Kenmore's will be all digits and look something like this ***.1234567. Where "*" is a series of 3 digits. Follow this link to see what I mean) and then go online to the Sears parts website (it doesn't matter if you bought your fridge from Sears or not... this is a PARTS lookup only) and enter the model number. Then you can "filter" your search simply by typing "evaporator" (no quotes) into the filter box. Then you have the part number, cool Huh? Armed with this, you can call a local appliance parts retailer OR plug that part number into any search engine and go price shopping!

UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE BEFORE PERFORMING REPAIRS!!!

Now for the pictorial tutorial...

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There ya go! Hope this helps.

SG

on Apr 30, 2009 | Roper RT21AKXKQ Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Ge arctica side by side. Freezer not freezing refrigerator not cooling


Hi,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

Apr 09, 2011 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

My fridge /frezer stop working


Hi,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

Apr 07, 2011 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Not freezing and not getting cold


Hello,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Take care.

Mar 31, 2011 | Hotpoint FFA90 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

The refrigerator and freezer aren't cooling.


Hello,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Take care.

Mar 30, 2011 | GE Caf? 25.4 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Not cooling properly in freezer and refrigerator


Hello,

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.


I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

Mar 07, 2011 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

I am getting power and the freezer appears to be working but the fridge is not cold at all, any suggestions? Many thanks Dave McRae


Hi Dave and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly,

Take a look in the back of the freezer compartment. Look for any signs of icing on the back access cover. Usually but not always the evaporator coils freeze up because the unit is not automatically defrosting properly or there is a problem with the evaporator fan not running fast enough / at all. Press gently with your hand of the back cover of the freezer compartment and feel for ice. Also check the front of the chassis for signs of being HOT. It is ok to be warm not hot.
Also check to see that the light goes on and off as you actuate the light switch plunger. Some units have the door switch in the top of the door hinge but most have the switch in the door fold area of the chassis some where.

If you find that the evaporator coils have iced up:
  • Perform a manual defrost of the unit but first unplugging it
  • Remove the freezer contents
  • Direct an external fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hrs. (makes a water mess)
  • After 2 hrs clean up the water mess and return the unit to normal service.
  • Watch after 3 days if the fresh food compartment once again starts warming up. If it does you have and automatic defrosting problem.
No ice noted:
  • Possible temp control problem (Thermostat / cold control or thermistor)
  • Possible Air Damper problem. There are 2 kinds of air dampers. One is electrically controlled and the other is nothing but a mechanical baffle that is positioned partially open. If you have the electrical type the air damper motor may have failed or the movable baffle is stuck.
Front of chassis is almost HOT to the touch vs warm:
  • Open the back of the unit by removing the black fiberboard cover and inspect for lint and that the condenser fan is running anytime the compressor is running.
Light always on:
  • Door switch failure. Some door switches also control the evaporator fan along with water in door and ice in door functions. The water and ice in door should NOT work with the door open.
The above is pretty much an in home repair techicians check list for the symptom you describe.
If you discover that you have an automatic defrosting problem I will need you MAKE & MODEL number via your next response here so I can tell you what you can do to troubleshoot. (
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Feb 28, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Our 4 year old GE side by side frig suddenly warmed to 64 degrees. Freezer stopped freezing and is at 43. Motor is running.


Really need to know what motor(s) are running (compressor, evap fan inside freezer compartment, condenser fan under fridge)?? Of course, check your temperature (thermostat) settings. Side-by-sides usually have 2 of them. They should be labled for refridgerator and freezer. The freezer control usually only opens a baffle from the freezer compartment to the refridge compartment. The refrigerator temp control is the one that controls the compressor on-off cycles and the temp of refrig compartment (this keeps the refrig compartment from freezing the milk and cokes) If the freezer control/baffle is set too far open, this will cause the refrig temp control to shut off too soon for the freezer temp to get low enough. These controls can get bumped out of the correct setting accidently from time to time.
To check the following, the fridge has to be running, or in a condition where it "should be" running: If compressor is running (condenser fan should be too), check if evaporator fan (inside freezer) is running. Open (freezer) door and hold door light switch in when you check evaporator fan operation (some fans stop when door is open) If it is not running you may have a bad evaporator fan motor. It could also be a bad defrost timer, causing the evaporator (also inside back of freezer) to ice-up. This blocks the air flow over evap. Also, there is a defrost terminator switch on the evaporator coil that stops the defrost cycle when coil is clear of ice/frost (but timer hasn't ended defrost cycle). If it is defective, that could also keep the fridge from going into the defrost cycle, or taking it out too soon. If it is the timer, change the defrost terminator as well. Depending on how handy you are, you may be able to check/change any of these parts yourself. If you don't know much about elecrical stuff, you should leave it to a repair tech. Hope this helps.

Jun 25, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Maytag Refrigerator is 69 degrees


You must check the evaporator fan motor in the freezer.
Is it running?
You may need to push the door switch with the freezer door open for fan to run with drawer open.
Next check the damper in the fresh food section.
Is it open?
Air circulating through?
If not, replace your damper control and thermistor.

Feb 21, 2009 | Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French...

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