Question about Irons
SOURCE: Iron Cleaning
If steam iron clogs from minerals in water, follow use-guide directions for cleaning, or use a commercial iron cleaner. A fine needle in the nozzle hole may open it again. Sometimes "steaming" will remove lint clogging the iron; fill with at least 1/4 cup water, set it to "steam", and hold in the air or set flat on wire rack over heat and moisture resistant surface like counter protective mat. Let steam until empty. Using only distilled water in steam irons helps avoid mineral buildup. Or if you have burned stains or darkness on the bottom you can Heat equal parts of vinegar and salt in small pan rub solution on cooled iron surface to remove dark or burned stains
Posted on Feb 18, 2008
SOURCE: No steam
It appears that your rocker switch is broken, I am attempting to find a source for the switch and the screw driver that removes the screws holding the unit together
Posted on Feb 25, 2008
It probably has a high temp overload opened up inside or the thermostat control has gone bad.You can only tell for sure by taking the unit apart and testing the circuit for continuity.The steam feature on the iron is heated by the same element that heats the iron so it wont work.the element itself could also be bad,but I have never seen one go bad.You will have to check each component seperately to find the damaged part.or you can test the whole circuit at the plugs end,and use a jumper across each part until you have continuity through the unit.Make sure the thermostat is turned all the way up.the part that you are bypassing when you get continuity is the bad part.
You can buy a cheap continuity checker at any lowes,or even wallmart for that matter.
Posted on Mar 16, 2009
SOURCE: Iron not heating up...
I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:
- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.
I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.
I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
Here is a tip that will help you to troubleshoot your iron and figure out what is wrong with it.
Electric Iron not Heating Up or not Working Right
Posted on Jul 14, 2010
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