Viking range vdsc305 bake element warms only slightly (you could touch it). It only receives ~24V instead of 240V.

There are several options for obtaining a replacement oven bake element for your 11-inch by 16-inch Eaton Viking 305 Wine model with 9-inch contacts. Here are some of the options you can try:

Check if the manufacturer Eaton Viking offers a replacement element compatible with your oven model. You can check their website or contact their customer service for help.

Look online for spare parts stores for appliances. You can search online or local stores that sell oven bakeware for your oven model. Some popular online stores include Amazon, eBay, or appliance parts sites.

Contact an oven technician or servicer for assistance. A qualified technician may be able to help you find the correct replacement oven bake element for your Eaton Viking 305 Wine model.

Look for online forums or groups for appliance owners. There are online groups where homeowners discuss their experiences repairing and maintaining their appliances. You can join these groups and ask questions for help and advice on finding a replacement oven bake element for your Eaton Viking 305 Wine model.

It is important to note that you may need to provide the exact model number of your Eaton Viking oven when searching for a replacement part to ensure you get the correct part for your appliance.

Look at the wiring diagram... The manual reset Thermal Limiter Switch (part number 74008715), located on the lower rear insulation retainer can keep both elements from working, not one at a time... I would inspect the back of the bake relay for a burnt/failing solder joint. Swapping the BAKE and BROIL leads is an acceptable test, but if you put the bake leads on the broil and still get no heat: check the control relay. If the broil leads will not heat the bake element, you have a bad element or bad connection. Be sure to do all testing of the elements with at least one wire detached so as not to red a back circuit.

Hello. I looked carefully at the service manual for your unit--surprisingly, there is no thermal switch inline with the bake/broil elements. Usually, if the bake or broil elements pop, this blows out the thermal switch, killing power to the elements for safety. The main control board can get damaged due to the high current draw during a short-circuit. The part number for the main board is WB27T10008. The overlay(the decorative sticker with the button/names on it) numbers are as follows: almond WB27T10022, black WB27T10023, and white WB27T10021. I hope this helps you!

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

It does sound like the bake element is probably the problem. Many ovens turn on the broil element with 120 volts to even out the heat in the oven or pulse the broil element. This may be why the oven is warm but not baking.

1.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
2.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
3.
4.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Sounds like you have a bad or loose wire on the element plug. If you could post the model number of the unit I will see if I have the service manual for your range.

Hi,

Your symptoms point to a failure in the electronic oven control board (that acts as the thermostat for the oven in this type of range). Unplug the range and remove the upper back panel to access this component. You will likely see to burn marks on the control board. The control board will need to be replaced in this situation.

Before installing the control board, I recommend that you check the bake and broil elements. Look for damage on both elements. Remove the lower back panel (with the range still unplugged ) and check the wiring connections on both elements. A damaged or shorted bake or broil element could have caused the problem with the control board.



Hope this helps.

Shane

bake element may have stop working wire burnt off or bad element that where i would start looking

your missing one 120volt leg,check your fuse/breaker panel then again at input terminals at unit and make sure you have a good neutral connection