Question about Bose Audio Players & Recorders
I have an old bose acoustimass 3 system that I would like to connect to a tv. How do I go about this without investing in a bulky AV receiver. Will a simple amplifier work? I was looking at a nobsound amp but not sure I can hook up the sub woofer to this.
Manuals (randomly chose a Series 2 from 1990-1994 - if not that, then choose the series from the Bose site)
There are a number of different models. Assuming you don't have a Powered version of the speakers (You'll know you do if you have to plug the subwoofer into AC power)
For the Unpowered systems, the subwoofer plugs into the Speaker R and L outputs of a receiver or an amplifier, so you will have to provide amplification. The satellites plug into the subwoofer and are NOT intended for direct connection to an amplifier.
You should be able to use whatever amplifier has audio inputs from your TV, and regular speaker wire connections out.
Posted on Nov 19, 2019
take it back for refund or exchange without delay. Too many times, there are cases of faulty factory assembly. Most likely a poorly connected wire inside sub, which fell off after a few booms.
Posted on Jun 17, 2007
it need it own sub out speaicl done so bye bose steyem crossovers wont work right in your set up nee dto upgrade the sub try mtx
Posted on Feb 04, 2008
not too sure what you are trying to do but just buy a aftermarket deck..for example for 100 bucks jvc has a nice deck with remote that plays mp3 and even has a jack right on the faceplate for a mp3 player.then throw your subs in the trunk hook up the amp and bingo banging beat.if u have the aruroa with the battery under the back seat its even easier
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
Honestly speaking you should probably not work on this unit yourself: "There are no user serviceable parts inside"
Even if you are an accomplished Electrical Engineer Bose will not provide the required schematics to troubleshoot and repair this unit.
Are you still undaunted . . . then if the case is the original LS-25 series, there is a hidden catch at the end of the cover furthest from the input connectors that needs to be rotated (until a plastic tab is sticking out), which you can do with a flat bladed screw driver, and you also need to remove a few screws from the bay where all of the connectors reside. Remove the two knobs from the side of the cover. Then hit the case with your fist at the far end (plastic tab) and the cover should then pop off. You may have to hit it hard, with an upward motion.
Note there is not going to be much you can do to fix this beyond replacing the fuse. (Note that the fuse may be soldered in.) The bass amplifier is op-amp based with discrete class G output stage and the twiddler amps are monolithics with discrete class G circuitry shared between several channels.
The power transformer has a thermal fuse in it as well which is not replaceable. If you play the unit loudly for long periods of time and it is not adequately ventilated it is possible for the thermal fuse to open - if this is the case you will definitely need to send it in for service.
When plugged in there are hazardous voltages present on the top PC board where the power connector is located, whether or not the unit is turned on.
Power switching is via a triac controlled by whichever front end you have CD-5? 12V should be present on the mini plug (tip I think, but might be ring) when the music center is on.
There is also offset detection circuitry that will latch the unit off should any output have more than a volt or so of offset.
For more information see following web site:
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
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