Tools required:
Allen wrench
7/16-inch socket driver
Needle-nose pliers
Approved fuel container
Scissors
Work gloves
Wire coat hanger
paper towels or shop rags
approx. 30 minutes
Drain the fuel tank
Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
In a well-ventilated area, remove the fuel cap and empty the fuel tank into an approved storage container.
Open the fuel cap.Remove the cylinder shield
Using an Allen wrench, remove the screws that hold the cylinder shield to the engine. Lift off the shield.
Remove the cylinder shield.Disconnect the spark plug wire and remove the air filter
Disconnect the wire from the spark plug. Pull the cover off the air filter housing and remove the filter.
Disconnect the spark plug wire.
Remove the air filter cover.
Remove the air filter.Remove the fuel filter
Straighten a piece of coat hanger and bend a hook on the end. Feed it through the mouth of the tank and fish out the white cylindrical fuel filter. Cut the fuel line to remove the filter.Remove the carburetor
Using a 7/16-inch socket driver, remove the 2 mounting nuts that secure the carburetor to the engine.
Pull the air filter housing off the carburetor.
Pull the carburetor from the engine block, sliding it along the mounting studs. Be careful not to bend the throttle linkage or damage the gas lines
Pull the carburetor off the mounting studs.
Remove the old fuel lines
Pull the fuel lines off the carburetor and primer bulb, using needle-nose pliers.
Use needle-nose pliers to pull the fuel lines out of the gas tank.
Tip: With some chainsaw models, you'll have to remove the screws from the primer bulb to detach the fuel lines.
Pull the fuel lines off of the carburetor.
Pull the fuel lines off of the primer bulb.
Pull the fuel lines out of the gas tank.
Install the new fuel lines
Use a pair of scissors to cut the new fuel lines at an angle to thread them into the tank. Push the large line about 1 inch into the tank.
Push the small line far enough into the tank so that it can be grabbed through the mouth of the tank with needle-nose pliers.
Pull the small line out the mouth of the tank. Cut the end square and install the fuel filter. Pull the line back in so the filter rests on the bottom of the tank. Trim the fuel lines and connect them to the carburetor
Install the fuel filter
Pull the small line out the mouth of the tank. Cut the end square and install the fuel filter. Pull the line back in so the filter rests on the bottom of the tank. Trim the fuel lines and connect them to the carburetor.Reinstall the carburetor
Slip the carburetor onto the mounting studs and push it into place. Position the air filter housing on the protruding studs.
Replace the mounting nuts and tighten them to seal the gasket between the engine and the carburetor.
Tip: Avoid crimping the fuel lines when re-installing the carburetor.
Reinstall the air filter cover and connect the spark plug
Position the air filter in the housing and replace the cover. Reattach the spark plug wire.Reinstall the cylinder shield
Reinstall the cylinder shield on the chainsaw.
Refill the fuel tank.
SOURCE: need owners maual for mcculloch power mac 6 chain saw
try my answer to the post on McCulloch pro/mac 10-10 chainsaw owners manual... posted by denniswick on Oct 03, 2008
SOURCE: I would like to know how to adjust the carburator of McCulloch 3516 chainsaw 35cc/cm 46759-77
the carbuator has two 2 adjusting screws on it.one is high side and the other is low side.start by turnig them both in until they touch bottom.now turn them both out 1 1/2 turns.this should start and run saw.throttle saw up to full throttle and adjust high side in until you get the best RPM out of saw.do not adjust high side any less then 7/8 turn out from bottom.if you do you will burn saw up from to lean burn.once the high sie is set now adjust low side until the saw will idle by it's self.let me know if this helped you.......
SOURCE: need to replace gas line inside mcculloch chain
You need to disassemble the case to get to the fuel tank. Pull out the plug fitting and replace the internals with new factory grade parts.
SOURCE: need fuel line schematic for mcculloch 3516 chain
What you request doesn't exist. Fuel system components, part numbers and some detail can be found here:
McCulloch IPLs
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/MCC/11-600035-34-Mac-3516-IPL-211318-01/139.11-600035-34-Mac-3516-IPL-211318-01.1.59.1.html
View all the pages and read the parts lists. Then use the following as a guide. Be warned! most saw shops will not repair these saws.
Fuel Line Replacement by SmallEng.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrXpU70Hmi0
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly. HTH
Lou
You have 5 times what was available just a month ago. Good Luck
SOURCE: set the carb for a mcculloch 3516 chain saw
Carburetor Adjustment
There are no hard and fast settings.
A good initial starting point for the "H" and "L" needle valves are 1.5 turns CCW from lightly seated.
The "T" adjustment enters here (idle speed) and there is no initial setting without a tachometer, depending on age of your saw there may not be any initial "T" setting.
The "L" needle is primarily idle performance (not speed) and acceleration to full throttle.
The "H" is mostly performance at speed, but all are interconnected.
Start with a fresh mix of fuel. Put ALL of the old mix in any 4 cycle engine and start new. I suggest 50:1 regardless of what your manual says.
• CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; once marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly.
• Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run.
• Clean the spark arrestor and muffler; if the saw cannot exhale it cannot inhale.
Now we adjust for performance. The best performance adjustment procedure I have found follows.
Madsens Shop & Supply, Inc. Carburetor adjustment (All saws homeowner and professional are the same)
http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm Read step 4 (allow it warm before making adjustments).
• There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full - may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
I am going to inject a little philosophy here. Undetected air leaks and defective fuel delivery systems account for most chainsaw failures. Constant adjustment of needle valves can easily camouflage more serious problems that result in burning up your saw. A sudden need for an adjustment is often indicative of a larger problem.
If push comes to shove a local saw shop (I prefer Stihl mechanics and do not own a Stihl) should be considered.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.
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