Contactor isnt pulling in to engage unit

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dayton 2e440 heater Questions & Answers - Fixya

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... a Dayton Model 2YU40 electric heater Need manual for Dayton. ... looking for a replacement fan and fan motor for a Dayton model 2E454B electric wall heater.

Dayton rheostat fan motor Heaters Questions & Answers ...

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Dayton heaters rheostat fan motor related questions and answers. ... UP BUT FAN WONT KICK ON Could be one of several problems dependant on the model you have.... The motors are noisy in 2 Dayton 2e440 heaters. I ... I'm looking for a replacement fan and fan motor for a Dayton model 2E454B electric wall heater.

DAYTON Electric Wall Heater, Recessed or Surface ...

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W. W. GraingerShop DAYTON Electric Wall Heater, Recessed or Surface, Voltage 208/240, Watts ...Item # 3UG56; Mfr. Model # 3UG56; UNSPSC # 40101814; Catalog Page # 4277; Shipping Weight 20.65 lbs. ... Additional features include a built-in thermal cutout andfan delay switch for added safety ... Need Help Finding Repair Parts?

I think its rattling sound. May be carbon formed between contacts. Clean it or replace contactor.

The contactor is supposed to turn the condensing unit on when everything else is right and the thermostat calls for cooling. There are various sensors that can keep the contactor from activating. If you are low on freon, if the inside coil is iced over, if the freon pressure is too high or alternatively too low, if there is no air flow to the inside coils and when the thermostat says it is cool enough, the contactor will kick the unit off. The contactor works off of low voltage signals sent from various sensors. When all sensors say ok the contactor pulls in the 220 volts. Because you are pushing the button in manually, you are over-riding all the sensors. It is something you are not supposed to do. To determine the exact cause, you would need to follow the wiring diagram to each sensor to see which one is showing a fault. Manually holding the contactor in can cause severe damage to your unit, if it hasn't already done so. As to why it is stuck on, there is an electromagnetic coil that pulls the main contact points together. The contacts may have overheated and welded together, or the magnetic coil may have burned out and swelled up enough to prevent the rod mechanism to back out of the coil. I would strongly suggest you have a good AC technician trace out your system to find the fault.

I assuming that the black box is a 100 amp breaker, which is connected to your condsensing unit (outside unit). If you open the box and pull the fuse then this will turn off/kill the power to your unit. As far as the buzzing noise it could be that the contactor is engaged. Hopefully, your fan motor is burnt out or the capicator is bad. If you take the access cover off and check for voltage at the contactor you should know if it is the fan motor. The voltage will come in at the bottom T1 T2 T3, once the contactor is engaged L1 L2 L3 will have the same power. Of course if your contactor is not engaging then thats the probelm, you can manual engage the contactor by pushing it in. There will be four wires two running to the capicator and the other to the contactor, these are the wires that control the fan motor. The other three wires run to your compressor. Hope this Helps Tim

I would replace the contactor if you are getting 24 volts to the contactor and it isn't engaging therefore the magneto on the contactor is out and the contactor will need replacement. If you don't have 24 volts at the contactor then the transformer that sends the 24 volts is bad and will need replacing

Dave

THE OUTDOOR UNIT HAS A CONTACTOR WITH THE CONTACTS WELDED TOGETHER THE CONTACTOR CONNECTS TO THE COMPRESSOR AS IT TYPICALLY PULLS A SURGE OF 20 -30 AMPS OR MORE..WITH THE INDOOR UNIT IN FAN ONLY THE COMPRESSOR SHOULD NOT BE RUNNING. THE CONTROL WIRES GOING TO THE UNIT HAVE 24 VOLTS TO THE CONTACTOR TO PULL IN THE CONTACTS TO SUPPLY 220 TO COMPRESSOR.

Do you hear a click when you turn thermostat all the way up? If this is a
220volt unit, then the contactor is porbably not pulled in. One sure way
to make sure you have power and functions is to have a electrically inclined person push the contactor in, unit shouldrun

you should not jump out high limits they are there to prevent fire .if it is opening there is a reason

I assume you mean its not Heating by not firing? If its 3 phase you may have lost 2/3's of your heat not just 1/3. Look at the safety's and find if 1 or more are open. Also there is a fuse able link on most elements and if you have had the heater try to run without a blower lately (or anytime in the past) the link may be out. These are usually installed where they "see" the heaters. If you have power to all the elements look for this or a bad element(s).

If your contactor is still not pulling in check for open safety's or bad timer.

Dayton heaters are a product sold by Grainger. Contact them for a manual.