Question about Haier Heating & Cooling
Possible fan motor or compressor drawing too much amps see if start up capacitors weak or bad motors
Posted on Dec 24, 2019
This type problem usually shows it mean head when your motor is going bad. The motor will run for just a moment then it gets really hot and shuts off till cool. I bet when you start the dryer you hear a unusuall humm as the motor starts. If you are not hearing a hestating humm as it starts then the problem may be elsewhere. Other possible problems that casue this would be. the tub rollers. To check the rollers reach inside and try to turn the tub with your hand. you should be able to turn the tub. if not you may need new rollers, or pads. Good luck and I hope its not a bad motor, but if it is let me know and I can have you one there in no time.
Mike Anderson (Owner)
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
Hello, It sounds like there is a problem with the electrical portion of the tiller. Once the internal coil heats up it looses the power to keep the engine running. The other option is the muffler that is overheating the carburetor to the point that it boils the gas before it gets to the engine. A lot of the older B.&S. engines used a two piece muffler with a screen inside that would get plugged up causing excessive heat to the carburetor. Good Luck, RAC
The Guest's problem is quite different. You should have throtlle cable coming down below the carburetor on the side of the B.&S. engine. Not knowing which type of govenor you have on the engine, early models had a metal plate that was controlled by the cooling air of the engine and later models had a mechanical govenor built into the side of the engine. Is sounds like the govenor is stuck at full throttle for one thing and the engine is running out of gas because it can't flow enough fuel to the motor. This type of problem can also be caused by a loose carburetor causing a vaccum leak or bad gaskets on the carburetor. I would rebuild the carburetor and insure all ports are clean and flowing, including the small screens on the bottom ot the fuel tubes, replace carb gaskets and check the carb. insulator to make sure it is not cracked also. While it is apart check the throttle linkage elements to insure they are free before reassembling the carb. back on the engine. Good Luck, RAC
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
The problem is that when u add up the electrical draw from all of these appliances running full bore, your draw exceeds your available amperage. Now you are doing the math and saying no...... Let me tell you why. It is rare to find a situation where a 100 amp service actually porovides 100 amps. You almost always have voltage dropo. And when you are adding extension cords to the mix the drop is even more. That said, When you are using the AC try to minimize the use of other appliances, especially the microwave which is a big draw too.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
be aware that not repairing this asap that you are causing yourself more problems First I would change out the fan capacitor and see if this could be the problem. Secondly if the capacitor isn,t the problem change out the motor . By continuing to allow the system to cycle like this the compressor will take a dive on you costing more . Good Luck
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
Testimonial: "Yes, it's dual run capacitor problem. I used a stick to spin the fan blades and it starts to slowly spin and up to normal speed, so motor is good."
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