Question about Refrigerators
on reading the user manuals, it suggests actually calling the F&P customer service numbers and telling them the pattern of the lights flashing.
They can ?diagnose the fault from the light sequence and can then tell you what u need to have fixed.
Posted on Jan 08, 2008
There is a duct between the freezer and refrigerator. Sometimes this duct blocks off with ice and won't allow airflow. Open your refrigerator door and check for air flow if there is none the duct needs to be defrosted. turn off freezer/ refrigerator and defrost.
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel model RF610
The F24 error show that the sensor in the ice maker is out of normal ranges. The usual fix is to replace the sensor in the ice maker. Also worth checking it to see is the water to the ice maker has frozen up in the value (switch the fridge off for a day). If the error still exists after that you will need to replace the ice maker sensor. You have a 2 year warranty on these parts so the fix should be free.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
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