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I have a Fisher and pykel fridge with the f20 code coming up but I have checked both hinge wires and they are still intact could it be that the wire inside the insulation is broken?

Posted by Ben Hawkins on

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retrorecycle

  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: Bottom hinge on fridge door broken

Yes, there is supposed to be a plastic bushing/washer under there. Usually 1/8 inch thick. If a dealer is not handy you may cut some out of plastic to put there. Then undo the top hinge, and carefully lift the door off (you might want to empty the shelfs). Put your spacer on the hinge pin, and replace the door and the top hinge.

Posted on Jan 28, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Model E372b Fisher & Pykel - Beeps with Fridge Door closed periodically-Higest shelves warm lower down freezes things

First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.

Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.

Posted on May 12, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 27 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel active smart E521T

I would reset the module. Open the fridge door, keep the freezer door closed, then press the mode button (located on the display panel. This will re initiate the electronics

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

Michial Gueffroy

  • 1140 Answers

SOURCE: SHure SM57 mcorphone not working -wires disconnected

The wire coming from the switch if it has one will go to pin 2 as it is hot(+ve). Pin 3 is cold (-ve) and pin 1 is gound/shield which will make contact when the XLR connector is mounted back in the mike secured with the set screw. There should be a small hole in the side of the base of the mike that the set screw lines up with. Usind the correct size of flat bladed screw driver, back this screw out counter clockwise to secure the connector. If that is wrong, get back to me and i will hunt up my Shure wiring diagrams. If pin 2 and 3 are backwards the mike will be out of phase. Hope this helps.

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: The top hinge of my neff integrated fridge freezer has broken.

The top hinge of my Neff integrated fridge freezer has broken so the door won't open and shut properly. As a temporary repair I intend to swop the hinges around -replacing the top hinge with the middle one but can't see how to remove the hinges. Can anyone help?

Posted on Jun 12, 2010

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