Dh8060p1 fisher and paykel heat pump condenser dryer
ELECTRICDryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Checkyour venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuityit should showOHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defectiveor has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.
The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter(VOM)set to the RX1 scaleat 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200)ohms.If the reading is higherohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,OR?you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposedto be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to createafire but ifthe motor is not running,andthe heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
In somedryer'sthecontrol panel relies on athermistorrather than aCYCLING thermostatto regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when thethermistorindicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drumthis is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)
Lastly check your moister sensor.( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shutdown early and clothesare still wet.
Test with a meterat room temperatureand it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run timein the automatic moisture sensing cyclebut it will not affect the heatingof the dryer or the timed cycle.Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g
http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.
GOD IS So GOOD !!!!AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE
SOURCE: Hotpoint Condenser Dryer Model CDT00
Either your heater is blow or your thermal cut outs are blown easy to check and replace ...
The are located at the back of the dryer behind the protuding funny shaped panel...
Check the continuity on the t-stats if no present then replace both of them small round things
then its the heater....
SOURCE: Bosch condensation dryer model WTL5400vc. lint filter alarm
there is a reservoir in the base of the dryer which holds some condensing water prior to the pump pumping it to the holding tank at the top this has a float swith to tell the pump to come on and drain water to top tank this is probably stuck in the on position so the machine thinks it is always full of water and its waiting for you to empty it,you need to remove side panel and remove flost switch to clean, remove condenser and put youre hand in back of unit if its still very wet in there thats the problem should be bone dry at end of cycle.
hope this helps
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel Auto Sensor Dryer stops & beeps constantly
Hi emkboyce
my Fisher Paykel auto sensor dryer keeps stopping and beeping, i have to stop it and and re start.
I had the same problem. I took it off the wall and vacuumed up all the lint from everywhere including around the back and including taking off the back and vacuuming everything I could reach inside. I then used a damp cloth to get rid of the rest of the lint/dust.
I thought I was wasting my time but guess what, the problem has gone.
Good luck!
SOURCE: WTL 5410 BOSCH AXXIS CONDENSATION ELECTRIC DRYER
the thermostats at the element have to be replaced, they burn out prematurely if the condensor unit is not cleaned on a regular basis.
SOURCE: zanussi tc7103w condenser dryer-water tank
I had this problem. If you look at the valve on the plastic water tank, you will see that those parts are the same. They fit inside the tumble dryer to shut off the water from flowing onto the floor when the water tank is removed. The white hollow cylinders in the tumble dryer and the water tank push each other open. If you study the water valve on the tank you will see how it is put together. It is all held in place by a little 9mm O ring at the back of the valve. The ring gets tired after a while and pops off. The valve then falls apart and you find the cylinder and spring on the floor and the O ring still inside the dryer. I bought an O ring kit and reassembled the valve inside the dryer using a new ring. You will have to pull the dryer out, turn it upside down and remove the floor to do this
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