IR SS3j5 5GH. wb oil coming out of copper pipe that fills the tanks it is spitting little drops into the unloader valve

This problem is caused by either the starter capacitor or the in-tank check valve. Ez to check. With no air in tank, start compressor; if motor hums or has difficulty suspect capacitor. If motor starts, partially fill tank and unplug the power. Check for air leaking at the pressure switch or air coming out of the air inlet (remove the air filter). If air leaking, replace check valve. If no air leaking, again let out all the from the tank and connect power. Allow the compressor to fill and shut-off. After the compressor fills, again listen for air leaking from the pressure switch unloader valve. If air continues to leak from unloader, replace the check valve. Good luck

Is this a rotary screw unit? Was it low unloaded sump pressure? If so the most probable cause is the minimum pressure check valve located under the aluminum cap on the seperater tank (oil tank). The check valve piston binds in the housing due to rust, dirt,etc. If you are going to attempt the repair your self I would recommend purchasing rebuild kit before disassembly.
If this problem is with a 2475 unit I would look at the pressure switch. If you are saying the unit starts/stops/starts etc and it is equiped with a low oil level switch the oil level is low. fill it to the oil fill plug threads.

You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store

There are two types of unloaders used on IR compressors. One is oil pressure controlled, and second is manually activated for starting. According to the photo and model number provided, yours is manually operated. Follow air line from compressor to tank. The pilot valve (brass valve) between airline and tank is a multi-function component. There is a flip leaver or pull ring w/ hold that unloads the compressor by venting air thru small muffler. The valve also contains the check-valve holding pressure in the tank, a means of adjusting pressure and controlls throttle for engine. For easy start, flip leaver upright and start; to run, flip leaver to right angle of stem.

sounds like you have a problem with the discharge valve on the secondary cylinder, some I.R. pumps rely on the cylinder head valves to hold back tank pressure when the pump comes to a stop. the line down to the crankcase in front of the crank is a unloader valve that dumps the air pressure inside the pump to allow the next restart. I think that once you drain the tank and remove that cylinder head you will find a defective valve in the head.

A couple of things to check is to see if the unloader valve is working, there is a copper line that goes to the pressure switch that dumps the air pressure off the pump to allow a start under no load. with the compressor off and the tank up to pressure loosen the fitting on the small copper line to see if there is any pressure there. if there is either the valve is plugged or the small lever under it from the pressure switch is not hitting the valve to unload it. The other suspect is that the start capacitor in the motor is bad. I assume that this is a 220 volt single phase motor. you would best take the motor to a motor shop and have it tested. this is something that I would advise you have a professional do if you are not experienced with motor repair.

That little copper line is an unloading line, to bleed compressed air out of the compressor head so that the motor can more easily start the compressor. Pressor switch should be threadded into top of air tank, and the unloading valve is built into the side of the switch. When the tank reaches the high pressure setting the switch disconnects power to the motor and opens the unloading valve at the same time. The unloading valve should be connected to the compressor discharge line through a check valve with an unloading valve port upstream of the check valve. These valves are usually threaded into the top of the air tank as well. Sounds to me like your valve was leaking and someone bypassed it.

sounds like you need a new check valve which should be somewhere between the compressor outlet piping,tubing,etc and the tank which prevents the air in tank to back feed to the compressor which would cause hard starting and could damage the motor easy way to check is when you shut off the compressor with some air in the tank if the check valve is bad it would continue to bleed air out out the unloader valve .the unloader valve on your unit is most likely part of the pressure switch when the unit shuts of it should only bleed down the pressure in the pump so it would make it easy to start when needed hope i didn't confuse you

Follow the copper airline that leads from the compressor to the tank and you will find the pilot valve. This brass valve controls the pressure setting and also controls the engine. There is a small flip lever on top of the pilot valve that unloads the compressor for easy starting when there is pressure in the tank. Raise the lever straight up for start and lay to side for normal run cycle. When the compressor fills tank to set level, the pilot valve pops and idles the engine. If engine stalls raise idle by turning the idle screw clockwise at the carb. The arm that you see under the tank is the governor control arm. To increase the engine speed when pumping turn speed control screw counter clockwise. Sometimes the throtle control cable must be adjusted by loosening the clamp that holds the cable (black cable) at the engine and pulling the cable back away from the clamp and re-clamp. Hope this helps, good luck.

Unloaders fail due to carbon deposits on seat. Unloaders can be found in the head or in the tank. Failed unloaders /check valves cause the motor to strain but rarely prevent pressure from building. Events that prevent pressure from building are as follows: restricted intake; cracked or dirty valves in the head; gaskets torn or burned causing pressure to be redirected into the intake. Root problem is caused by carbon deposits and heat. Carbon can be formed if oil is drawn into cylinder due to worn rings or the wrong kind of oil is being used. Compressor oil is formulated to prevent carbon. Engine oil will cause heavy carbon deposts. Replace gaskets worn or broken valves and bad check valves to restore pressure. enjoy