Question about Kenmore Refrigerators
I did a forced defrost, it defrosted fine. did the evaporator fan and compressor fan check both fine. Damper test fine. it might be the electronic control board but there's no test for that that I can find. It's $155 not returnable. This frig is less than 15 months old. nothing but cheap junk from you know where
Thermistors input temperatures to the control boards. Thermistors may have a 2k Ohms value at 70° F, a service manual or guide, or look up part number for replacing any thermistor out of range.
Posted on Oct 16, 2019
SOURCE: Kenmore Fridge 596.76509500
KentC, This was my post on a model like yours. Read thru this and let me know what you find. If the ice/frost buildup is fairly thick and only on the back freezer panel then you have a defrost problem. Most likely the defrost thermostat is bad. It would be hard to explain how to test this in writing but there is a tech sheet underneath the fridge behind the grill on the r/f. It is in plastic which is stuck to the fridge. This tech sheet will tell you how to put it into diagnostic mode. First take the back panel of the freezer off (may need to get frost off first). Should be four 1/4" screws in each corner of the panel to remove. Will need to remove racks, door (should just lift off), and ice maker first. Remove vent in center of freezer panel by pushing up little tab in the center of the vent and using a screw driver to pop it loose on each side of the vent. Then remove thermistor cover on right hand side of panel. Remove (by pushing thru) ice maker plug. Once the panel is off put the fridge into defrost by the instructions on the tech sheet. If it goes into defrost (heater will get hot) then the main control board is bad. If not shut the doors to reset, defrost evaporator with a hair dryer and remove the defrost thermostat. It is a little metal round piece with two wires coming out of it and just clips onto the evaporator. Cut the two wires coming out of the thermostat, strip them back and splice them together. Now put it into defrost again. If the heater comes on then you know the thermostat is bad. Diagnostics mode can also test all functions i.e. condensor motor, compressor, evaporator fan, and thermistors. With all of that said, if it isn't a thick frost buildup the evaporator fan motor may be bad which is the most common repair on this model. It sits just behind the vent in the center of the freezer panel. Let me know what you find.
Posted on Oct 20, 2007
YES see if you have 12 volts dc at the evaperator motor if you do then the motor is bad if you do not then the mother board is bad and ge recomends in this case to also change the fan motor at the same time
Posted on Apr 17, 2008
SOURCE: Defrost heater not cycling
sound like to me you have a wire terminal short on the neutral side between you def. t-stat and the adc
go to www.servicematters.com for the service bulletin on this issue
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/marlon_56d9a24f02585258
Posted on Jun 01, 2008
Rotate the dial on the defrost thermostat, a big click is when it goes into defrost, a little more and it should turn the compressor back on. By overload protector, do you mean the one under the compressor cover?
Posted on May 03, 2009
Check and make sure fan in frezer section works properly.you should be able to hear fan slowing down when you open freezer, or find door switch and press and hold..hope it helps you..
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
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