Automotive r134a refrigerant in refrigerator compressor?

It sounds like you've done just about everything except to check if there is a bad or intermittent wire causing this or perhaps your low-pressure safety cutout switch is possible going bad causing the compressor to kick on and off?

well in that year they used r12 refrigerant ! today they use r134a refrigerant they are not interchangable if you have already converted to r134a they you can call toyota and ask for specific amount although you really dont need to know all you need is a can of r134a with a gauge on it if it
75-80 degrees outside the pressure should be between 40-45 pounds if its 85-90 degrees between 45-50 pounds on the low side were you add it so basiclly keep adding till those pressures are reached

please do not add r134a if you have not had system converted over from r12

Hi!!
Unfortunately, the R-12 refrigerant that your compressor used was phased out on 1994. You will need to an Automotive A/C Shop to have the system evacuated, flushed, vacuumed, retrofitted and charged with R134a refrigerant. This job requires the use of specialized equipment and according to EPA regulations must be performed by a licensed HVAC Technician.
Once your system was retrofitted, if you ever need to re-charge refrigerant. All autoparts carry easy to use, instructions included, R134a refrigerant recharge kits.
Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.

R134a is the refrigerant that is pumped through the compressor. The water filter is for the water dispenser and the ice maker, it has absolutely nothing to do whatsoever with the refrigerant. If you have a water filter on your model, and its possible you dont, it will be located inside the fresh food section at the top.

R12 is not sold no longer so look on the compressor for a tag of what freon to use. Conversions kits are sold for older cars to use R134a

I have upgraded or retrofitted older cars with r134a before with the ester oil and never had any problems with the refrigerant working with the old oil, as long as you put a few ounces of the new oil in.

The kit for r134a conversion from R-12 has everything you need to upgrade without removing all of the old oil.

Of course, in the early days of r134a conversion in the early 1990s there were people who recommended that you take the whole system apart, compressor, piping, receiver drier, etc. and replace the receiver drier and dump out the old oil.

In my opinion, this is a very expensive proposition, and good to excellent air conditioning can be had by following the R134a conversion kit instructions and installing 2 or 3 cans of refrigerant into your system.

This can be done by yourself.

Watch, if you're in California, you have to return empty cans of R134a to the store because they say that it is harmful to the environment and they want to keep track of it.

Good luck staying cool with R134a.

Get a can of R134a refrigerant with sealant and oil and add with a hose.
Can buy at Walmart for under $30.
Buy the conversion from R-12 to R134a kit if you need to.

Sometimes adding a few ounces of oil will quiet the compressor but you have to try.

Compressor is probably a few hundred dollars to replace, so try the cheap solution first.

The ac system may need freon added,if the system is low,or out of freon,it will not allow the ac compressor to come on.

You can use R134a compressors with the Poly oil in them and use R12 or R134a (flush the remaining old mineral oil out of the system first). Match your BTU requirements.

The stop leak probably stopped up your cap tube system and the filter drier.You can try by replacing the filter drier, vacuum the system to 500 microns and recharge.The automotive 134a is the same as any other 134a.