Suspect there may be a problem with engine timing and need to remove flywheel from TB425CS to check key-to-shaft integrity. Engine sometimes will start, but spits through carb while attempting the start, and while running. However, engine will not turn up rpm, and still spits through carb at idle and sometimes dies. New carb, fuel, fuel lines, filter, cleaned exhaust port, checked valve setting, good spark, good compression, coil gap looks about right. Valve setting was checked at TDC. Comments appreciated.
Testimonial: "I think you're right about the puller for the flywheel. Thanks for the input."
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for the cam shaft yes it should have timing marks that make sure your cam shaft and crankshaft are aligned. the keyway on the flywheel ligns the flywheel up with its ignition cycle obviously but yes the cam has marks for the crank
Take off left sidecover,......Remove flywheel nut and washer. You'll probably need to put the bike in 4th or5th gear and get someone to stand on the rear brake as you remove flywheel nut and washer.......Screw the japanese flywheel removal tool into the flywheel.....tighten the center bolt of the tool till it firmly butts on crankshaft......Strike the center bolt of the flywheel tool semi-hard with a hammer to "shock" the tapered fit of the flywheel and shaft...... Tighten the center bolt of the tool a little and repeat till flywheel is dislodged......Gently remove flywheel. There are powerful magnets in the flywheel so hold onto it tightly as you gently draw it off the shaft......You'll see the points and condenser....... Remove them but when you put the new points in, the little washers must go on precisely like they were on with the old set of points,otherwise the points will be shunted to ground and you'll never get any spark......After you've installed the points gently replace the flywheel on the shaft being careful to make sure you're not smashing the rubbing block part of the points......Oh yeah there's a flywheel key imbedded in the shaft. It insures proper location of the flywheel in relation to the piston. Sometimes they'll shear or get deformed. Replace it if it needs it. The bike may still have spark if it is sheared, but it will be at the wrong time........Put flywheel on and tighten flywheel tight.. I mean tight. If you don't you'll shear the key. Don't strip-out the threads though......The points are adjusted thru the windows in the flywheel.. It's kind of a hassle until you've done it a bunch of times but what you do is rotate the flywheel and make sure the points are closed at the low part of the ramp on the flywheel. Slowly rotate the flywheel and you'll see the points opening. The goal is to have the points break open at the same time the marks on the flywheel line up with the reference point on the engine.. The points have a little slot usually that helps you open and close the point gap. Basically the larger the gap=advances the timing.......the smaller the gap= retards the timing........ Good Luck
Remove the small bolts that hold top cover on . Remove small bolts that hold down ignition coil unplug the spark plug wire. Set the coil out of the way. Remove the nut from the center of the flywheel. Use a steering wheel puller to remove the flywheel. Install the new flywheel over shafts key tap center of new flywheel on the shaft . Keep eye on the key that the flywheel doesn't push out of the shaft . Install nut and get it tight.gap coil with a business card between coil and flywheel as you tightening bolts plug in spark plug wire . Reinstall top cover.
The engine flywheel key is probably sheared, throwing the timing off and producing the soot. Remove the engine cover and starter cup on top of crankshaft. Look down the side of the shaft where the flywheel is held on. There is a long slot in the crankshaft there that runs vertically. Observe closely, and you will probably find that the slot in the flywheel has moved AWAY from the slot in the crankshaft. The key holds the two together, keeping the engine in time. The key is aluminum and a 1 dollar part. You will need to remove the flywheel to remove the old key, clean the slotted area up with emory cloth, and reinstall a NEW key. Timing will be restored and no more sooting!
It sounds like the flywheel key is bent and /or broken. You have to remove the flywheel to check. Remove the part containing the starter rope. Under, you will see the top of the flywheel. Remove the nut holding the cup to the flywheel.If you have a wooden mallot, lift up on one side of the flywheel and rap the shaft with the mallot. If you dont have a mallot, find a nut with the same thread as the shaft. Wind the nut on so the nutis just above the shaft. Now, holding the side of the flywheel, rap the nut with a hammer. You may have to do it several times.When the flywheel comes off, check the flywheel key. It should be in a slot on the shaft. Get a new one and replace it in the reverse order that you took it apart.Please be careful and REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG WIRE BEFORE WORKING ON THE FLYWHEEL!! Good luck...Lee
You need a flywheel puller tool. You can rent them at most auto parts stores for a few dollars a day. Be advised that flywheels can be very hard to remove, and can come off suddenly and violently when using a puller, keep your face away.
Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
Raise and support vehicle.
Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.
Install transmission to flywheel housing.
Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
Install starter motor.
Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable