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The following is "borrowed" from another site but the process is the same.
"Begin by removing the
cabinet. To remove the cabinet on this design machine. Locate two screws in the
bottom front of the control panel. This panel is where you set controls. Remove the two Phillips head
screws and lift up and turn control panel backwards. It will hinge to an up
position and stay there. Locate the two brass colored clips that hold the back
of the washer to the cabinet. Remove
by prying up with screwdriver. Unplug the wires
going to the lid switch. Pull
forward on the cabinet and the whole thing will
disconnect from the base of washer and you can set it aside. After removing the
cabinet, remove the motor and pump."
If the washer pump drains (and you hear the motor), the timer is directing power to the motor to reverse itself and spin the pump. (timer, motor and pump should be OK)
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
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Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from
spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting
throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
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After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of
sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore)
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly)
for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Check your lid switch.
If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.
NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lig hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.
If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch
The part number for your lid switch is 3949238. It can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.
This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
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