Question about Photography
SOURCE: Canon AE-1 with Program
Have you change with a new battery?
Or check the battery with a DVM(digital volt meter).
Or get some batteries and connect in series to equal to that voltage and use two wire leads. One lead to -negative side of the battery, other lead to +positive. Now, -neg to neg of camera and +pos to pos of camera.
You now have power to the camera to test. This will save money rather than buying the camera's battery for testing. AA, C or D will work, just look on the camera's battery to see the right voltage.
Examples: with two batteries (1.5VDC + 1.5VDC = 3..0VDC). So -(negative) of one battery to + (positive) of the second battery with solder.
-(-neg, battery, pos+) solder to -(neg, 2nd battery, pos+)+
left side , use black wire on -(Neg) and solder
right side, use red wire on +(Pos) and solder.
Now you have two leads, use those to connect to camera.
Do you get data from viewfinder?
Posted on Dec 13, 2007
That can be a problem. The ASA dial has a post that links to another ring under the top cover. The ring under the cover is spring loaded via a tungsten cable that travels the span of the top of the camera to the rewind side. If you are not careful, the cable could break.
To get to the dial, unscrew the cap screw that holds the film advance lever on. The cap screw has 2 small holes for a specific tool, but small needle nose pliers with fine points will work. The lever can be removed with 2 washers along with it. You can now see the retaining nut for the dial. It is best to set the dial at 'B', 3200 ASA. Use the same pliers to remove the nut. The dial can be removed at this point. Best to lift it on the far side near the edge of the top. If the dial itself is damaged, I probably have a good used one. The ring under the top has a notch for the ASA dial post, at rest it should be at about 10:00 oclock. With the ASA dial still set at B/3200, lean the post into the notch and slowly turn it counter-clockwise till the ASA dial can be seated fully. Reassemble the other parts in the reverse order.
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
Unplug power cord, or remove circuit breaker, then waitfor the oven to cool down, if it still does not open in one hour or so, thedoor must be taken apart from the hinges, and the door lock replaced. If thetimer is bad you will have to remove the door or replace the timer and then thedoor will open automatically.
Most ranges today use 3different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear aloud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you mustmove to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that youmust move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowlymoves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by its self when you set therange for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails toopen after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourselfto open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift thecook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must bepulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Somebuild in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system.On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operatethe lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style oflock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work.On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of therange and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted atthe front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style oflock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open,you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power fromthe range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assemblyand operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of thesolenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply poweralso. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open anduse your range until you can get a tech to repair if you cannot repairyourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cyclewith the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't beclosed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch onthe front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press thatdoor switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycleto get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
*On -some- Frigidaire built ranges, the switch is located behind the right handside panel and activated by the right hand door hinge. On this model, the sidepanel may need to be removed to access a malfunctioning door switch. Hope this will help you. GoodLuck.
Posted on Jul 14, 2011
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