Question about Whirlpool Inglis IP8200 Dryer

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The dryer is spinning, but not generating heat. I'm assuming it's the heating element or thermostat. How do I determine which one?

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Are you getting any heat at all when the dryer's running? You'll have to trick the safety's while the dryers running- do this at your own risk & V-E-R-Y CAREFULLY.

If the dry is 220 VAC, only the low temp heater may be working & the high temp heater gone- if that's the case, replace the appropriate coil.

If the dryer was set up for 120 VAC it's the thermostat

You may consider replacing all 3 units if you plan on keeping the dryer for the next dew years, by taking that approach you've done a rebuild leaving only two other components to fail in the future. The last time I had to do this, the thermo and two heater coils were cheap- about $40 for all for an Appliance Parts warehouse, just check you phone book for small appliance repair parts.

I hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

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The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

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2 Answers

I have kitchenaid dryer, #KEYS677EQ0, no heat. Have replaced heat element, & checked all the thermostats. I have power on the thermostat side of the element, but none on the motor side. Motor or timer


1) Have you checked to makes sure all of the connections for the heating element are correct and plugged in?
2) Have you checked to make sure any and all fuses (if any) are good?
3) Have you cleaned the interior of the dryer?
4) Have you opened the dryer up and turned it on to check to see if the heating coil is heating or not?

If you haven't done these go back and do so.

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What shoudl I check to determine why my whirlpool WED5840SW0 is not heating?


Check the thermal fuse the cutout fuse & all thermostats .
Also check the heating element & check to see if it is touching any metal. It also could be the centrifical switch in the motor.
Hope this helps

May 09, 2014 | Dryers

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No heat in dryer mode


In electric dryers, heat is generated by the heating element. The element is a coil of heating wire enclosed in a metal chamber. Electric current flowing through the coil creates heat and the air being pulled through the chamber absorbs this heat. If the element is defective then it will not heat. It can be tested with a multi-meter for continuity. Unplug the dryer and remove the front or rear panel to locate the element so it can be tested.
The high limit thermostat is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.

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Dryer spins but no heat


Conventional dryers are usually accessed by removing the rear panel. I would think these would be the same. Unplug the dryer and remove wires from heating element. Test for continuity with an ohmmeter. If there is no reading, the heating element is bad. Disconnect wires from the hi temp thermostat and test with an ohmmeter and if no reading it is bad. Sears has these parts available.

Nov 07, 2013 | Kenmore Dryers

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I have a kenmore 80 series electric dryer. The dryer is spinning but not heating. I have replaced the heating element and High limit thermostat and the dryer is still not heating


The best thing to do is a continuity check on the AC supply from the main supply through to the heating element and determine where the fault is.

Jul 08, 2010 | Dryers

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Dryer not generating adequate heat. needing multiple cycles to dry. cleaned out the vent but no improvement. heating element??


I would check heating element also on the heating element box is a thermostat probably need to check that also take the wires off the heating element and use an ohm meter to check it out it should register and not go to infinity. Same for the heating thermostat.

Jul 15, 2010 | Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked...

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How to replace heating element on dryer model #96282100


This is a fairly simple procedure. Just follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present even with the dryer turned off.

2. Turn the dryer around so you can access the rear and remove the exhaust vent hose.

3. Locate and remove the screws around the perimeter of the dryer back panel and remove panel.

The dryer heating circuitry will be located on the right hand side (as viewed form the rear). The heating circuits consist of the following components:

Heating Element - (part number 660982)
*Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - (part number 279769 includes the Hi-Limit Thermostat).

*If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is determined to be defective it is recommended that you replace BOTH parts at the same time. That's why they are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

The heating element is located inside the heater box. The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

Searspartdirect.com has an excellent exploded view diagram of all these components. Just type in your model number and locate the following under the "bulkhead" section:

TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat - Item 1
Heating Element - Item 14
Hi-Limit Thermostat (by itself) - Item 34

The reason I mention all these components is because if you have not confirmed the heating element to be defective, you may actually have a blown TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat. Its easy to assume a bad heating element if the dryer fails to heat, but it may or may not be the cause. Just some additional things to consider, that's all. These components cost less than a heating element too. If you have determined the heating element is bad, then continue with the following:

4. Disconnect the leads to the heating element and locate the screws that hold the heater box in place.

5. Locate the screws on the outside of the heater box that hold the element in place. You may also have to remove the TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat.

6. Once the screws are removed, the heating element will slide out of the heater box. The element fits tight and it may require a little effort.

7. Once the defective element is removed, install the new one by sliding it inside the heater box. Make sure you align the screws holes.

8. Reinstall the remaining components and reinstall the heater box.

The rest is self-explanatory.

NOTE: A good heating element will read approximately 9 to 13 ohms. Make sure you disconnect any leads before taking any measurements to ensure accuracy of your readings.

The following link explains a good portion of what I've already explained to you, but it may help as well:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention the section that discusses proper air flow. The majority of all dryer heat related problems are attributed to poorly installed, kinked, clogged or crushed exhaust vent ducting. If you haven't thoroughly inspected the dryer and ducting recently, now may be a good time to do so. Otherwise, any components you replace will fail prematurely. Not to mention, a clogged dryer is also a fire hazard.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Oct 20, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Elite Model number 110.63022100 which isn't heating. I just cleaned the vent which was a problem. I assume this has caused a problem with the heating element or thermostat. What do I do...


Is the drum spinning, but not heating? Or...is the drum not spinning at all?

First, we'll assume your dryer is spinning, but just not heating. If your dryer vent was clogged as you stated, it is common for the thermal cut-out (TCO) to blow. This is a non-resettable device that acts as a fuse. Once it blows, it has to be replaced. There is also a possibility that the heating element went bad, if the TCO didn't do it's job. To check, you will have to remove the lower panel under the door. There are some screws under the bottom lip of the panel that you will have to remove and then the panel should just drop down and come off. CAUTION: Please UNPLUG the dryer BEFORE servicing anything inside. There are still dangerous voltages present with the dryer turned off.

Now located the heating element. It will be on the right-hand side encased in a heater box. There are two small components mounted to the heater box housing. The one closest to the front of the dryer is the high-limit thermostat. The one farthest to the back is the TCO. The two work in conjunction to help regulate the temperature inside the dryer, as well as, protect the heating element. Locate the two wires coming off the ceramic terminal of the heating element. Unplug these two wires and do a resistance check across the terminal. If the heating element is good, it will read about 9-13 ohms. Now remove the two wires from the TCO and perform a resistance check. The resistance should read 0 ohms (or a short) if good. If the TCO reads infinite (or open) it must be replaced. The same applies the the heating element. If the TCO requires replacement, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace the high-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases, the two components are sold as a set. The reason being that if the heating circuits overheat, there is a strong potential that the thermostat will be damaged as well. Replacing only one of the components can result in having the replace the other a short time later.

Now, if your dryer does not spin at all, you probably have a blown thermal FUSE. There is a difference between the thermal FUSE and the thermal CUT-OUT. The thermal fuse is located on the air blower housing right under the drum, and is a white plastic component. Remove the wires from it and perform a resistance check. It should also read a short if good. If not, it must be replaced.

If you need parts, here are the part numbers:

Thermal Cut-out/Thermostat Kit (part #2821)
Thermal Fuse (part #2923)
Heating Element (part #525502)

You can find all these parts at repairclinic.com, along with the price information & pictorial part index. Just type your model number in the search menu. I hope this helps you. If you need any further assistnace, please post back with comments and let me know.

Feb 06, 2008 | Dryers

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