Your thermostat is not working.
SOURCE: Goodman furnace I think
Ok, a flashing 3 on a Goodman control board usually means that the pressure switch is tripping. A few things will cause this. One being a restriction in the exhaust or combustion air inlet. The second could indicate a faulty inducer blower motor and the third would be a blocked or bad pressure switch.
With the front cover off and door switch taped down, Have a helper turn the thermostat up to 75. You will be watching the circuit board for flashing lights and in a few seconds the inducer motor (the small fan hooked to the exhaust) will start. If this does not happen, we either have a bad circuit board or blower motor. If the fan starts rotating, inspect the hoses going to the small circular pressure switch. Sometimes they may get either water or debris in the hose and not allow the switch to sense pressure. If the hoses look OK, the igniter will glow an orange color and you will see this if you look thru the small viewing port. IF no glow, you could have a bad pressure switch, a bad ignition relay (found on the circuit board) or a bad igniter. OK so if the igniter glows, a few seconds later the gas valve should click open and send gas to the burners. The orange will turn to blue. If this does not happen, you have either a bad gas valve or bad circuit board. Finally if you get flame but it will not stay lit more than a few seconds, you may have a restriction in the burner gas train, a bad gas valve, a dirty or bad flame sensor or not enough gas pressure.
Knowing the sequence of operation will give you the needed information to talk with a service technician and cut down on diagnostic costs.
Try looking on the back of the furnace access panel for both model number and a diagnostic schematic. This will confirm what the flashing 3 code means for your unit.
Sorry, without knowing the model number, this is the best I can do for you. Good Luck!
SOURCE: weak flame in intertherm furnace
Ok, so we can rule out the ignitor. (standing pilot systems can develop problems that will cause such symptoms.)
Check the gas pressure, make sure you are getting 11 to 14 PSI.
You need that after the regulator all the way to the manifold.
Also check for cracks in the heat exchanger, causing the wind from the blower to distort the flame pattern enough to cause improper contact with the flame sensor.
Make sure the burners and flame channels are clean of rust, and dibri build up, allowing the flame to properly contact the sensors.
SOURCE: hp computer. hard drive light is solid yellow pc non working
What has transpired is the power supply is bad. Electrolytic Capacitors inside have failed. These capacitors relate directly to the voltage power rails of the power supply. They are filters.
Little more detailed.
Your computer power supply converts AC electricity into DC electricity. (A flashlight battery is an example of stored DC electricity)
AC comes into input Electrolytic capacitors. Goes to a rectifier bridge, and on through various other components. Along the way, this DC voltage is considered 'Raw'. It needs to be a steady, 'clean', supply of DC voltage. There are Electrolytic capacitors used in the final stage, to convert the 'raw' DC to 'true' DC.
In a computer power supply the Electrolytic capacitors are the weakest link. They are usually the first component to go out.
You computer power supply converts AC voltage into three DC voltages. 3.3 volts, 5 volts, and 12 volts. These are the power rails.
When one, or more Electrolytic capacitors are weak, they make a weak voltage rail.
To simplify explaining the construction of an Electrolytic capacitor, let's just state they are small aluminum 'cans', and have a seal at one end, or both ends. Inside there is an Electrolytic paste.
This paste can break down, and when it does it forms a gas. (Hydrogen gas) This gas expands inside the 'can', pushes up on the seal/s, and makes Electrolytic paste ooze out.
So much paste loss, and the capacitor can operate in a weakened state. Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.
ALL the lights in your computer use less than 1 Watt. EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts. A harddrive just sitting there spinning, may use up to 5 Watts.
A processor uses 55 to 125 Watts! Depends on the make and model.
Since the power supply is to weak to provide enough power to turn the processor on, the harddrive isn't activated. It just sits there and spins. No Boot record on the harddrive is found, so no Operating System is going to be running. (WinXP is an example of an O/S)
This essentially means No computer! Harddrive activity light indicates yellow, then goes out. There is no harddrive activity.
No signal from the computer, because the computer isn't working.
Monitor stays in Standby, because there is no signal from the computer.
Power supply failure is 70% of computer issues.
Why?
Owner neglects to keep the inside of the computer, and the power supply clean. Doesn't use a can of compressed air for computers regularly.
Also there is another issue that the owner has nothing to do with.
Capacitor Plague.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Solution? Replace the power supply.
I know the above info may seem like a 'Hard pill to swallow', but as stated. A weak power supply will still spin fans, and light lights.
Harddrive may spin, or spin up, then stop.
The processor isn't getting enough power.
SOURCE: All 3 Error lights are flashing (4 if you count the GO button)!!
When all lights flash it's a service problem. You press and hold the go button and see what lights are on then.error light means main PCB failure, Toner light means fuser failure, drum light means laser failure. Toner and error light means main motor error, drum plus error light means its a fan failure.
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