5 year old Dometic NDR1062 RV fridge is not cooling. Its hooked to electric and the 12 volt. All fuses are good. Ammonia lines are hot to touch. Unit is out of the RV and level.

There is a plug in the cooling unit. Take the fridge out and lay it on its side for 1/2 hr, then on the other side for the same amount of time. Do this with the fridge inverted too. What this tumbling does is dislodge any particles which will restrict the flow of the fluids in the pipes. This is an old trick RV technicians trick to try to save the cost of replacing the the cooling unit.

RV Refrigerator Stop Working? - RVing - Fun Times Guide

rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2009/09/rv_refrigerator.php

If your refrigerator works on gas, but won't work on electric, you may have a burned out.... Cirtis, We are camping in Montana and our dometic refrigerator decided to stop ......Won't know until you can confirm you have proper voltage to the fridge. ... If you have confirmed both 12 vdc and 110 vac power at the fridge, I would ...

[PDF]Dometic Manual Refrigerator Diagnostic Service Manual

www.nationalserroscotty.org/resources/dometic-service-manual.pdf

Dometic Manual Refrigerators. ... 110 Volt Plug. 2. .... This is Dometic's Manual Refrigeration Diagnosis and Troubleshooting program. In this ... we will discuss the way an absorption cooling unit operates, and the ... gas, 120 volts AC and 12 volts DC .....In this condition we are still boiling ammonia but have no hydrogen for.

Dometic Fridge problems - RV mechanic

My rv repairman says my cooling unit is blocked. Is there a replacement fridge recommended for my NDM1062 ?

Shut it off immediately and do not use it. Ammonia is sign of coolant leak, thus cooling unit is leaking/faulty, and as I'm sure you know, ammonia is dangerous to inhale etc. Sorry to say but, it's time for a new fridge, and at very least a cooling unit, but speaking from experience, your better off buying a complete new unit. I've seen many people replace cooling unit to save a few hundred dollars, then end up replacing circuit board, and various other item one after the other down the road. New fridge comes with year or 2 warranty as well.

Don't be despirate.

You need a little more knowledge ... I'm here to give it.

Your RV refrigerator requires 12 volts to operate; on gas or on electric ... it needs 12 volts - period.

Now then, your frig will get 12 volts from your 'power converter' AND/OR your battery. You do have a battery in your unit, correct? If not - why not? Get one. (Your power converter cannot provide all the 12 volts you potentially require in all circumstances. It is there to charge the battery, which CAN supply all the 12 volts you require. The converter can probably put out 15 amps - your battery can put out 100 amps or more (@ 12 volts DC). Relying only on the converter for your 12 volts will cause over heating and will eventually destroy the converter. Batteries are about $100.00 - converters are about $300.00.

As you know, your frig will run on gas if you are plugged in or on generator ... that allows your frig to get the 12 volts required to run the controls.

What about electric operation? If you are plugged in or on generator, you can run on electric because your Norcold has 12 volts from the converter and/or battery.

Whats going on? Your absorbtion type refrigerator requires a heat source to boil the ammonia mixture to create "heat removing" (you can't really cool anything ... only remove the heat from it!) You can heat the ammonia with a flame or with a electric CALROD. However, the control panel that drives the whole operation runs of 12 volts.

You have a battery and generator and are plugged in and it still doesn't work? You will find a fuse on the control panel in the compartment accessible from the outside of your unit. Check/replace the faulty fuse and you will be back in business.

I hope this helps you and hubby with your Norcold Frig. Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com. If you found this solution to be helpful, please vote. Thanks

if you find an oily substance its most likely freon. this looks pretty new so i would say you have a bad soldered joint on a copper to steel line. theses usually ar fot the high side. where the condensor coil or loop runs either to underref or up in the ref walls

Check any fuses/circuit breakers in harness from battery. That battery should supply 12 volts dc to fridge lugs/terminals at bottom of fridge on outside behind vent.
If battery is good and hooked up properly but no 12 volts to fridge, then you will have to trace back to battery for broken /bad wire. If you want to test quickly, just run 2 jumper wires from battery to those 2 lugs marked + and - Battery + to + (pos)at fridge, and - battery to -Neg at fridge. That should allow you to run it on propane or 12 volt. Remember, running it on 12 volts will kill that battery pretty quick, unless it's being charged. When you are plugged in, the converter supplies the 12 volts to your fridge, as well as should be charging your battery.

Check connection for 12 volts, at back of fridge behind vent cover .(outside) Make sure 12 volts getting to the lugs where they join. If you have 12 volts to there, unplug fridge at receptacle usually on left side by back of fridge, just to be safe. Remove cover on circuit board and look for a blown (glass type fuse in there.)

Hi,
Sorry to give you the bad news. The ammonia smell is the the refrigerant
leaking out. Dometic uses ammonia that is heated and then condensed to cool. It will all leak out and quit cooling.
The fridge is wrecked. There are shops that rebuild the units. Beings as ammonia is corrosive one must assume there may be other leaks ready to appear. There are RV salvage yards that sell good used units.
Again Sorry for your loss.

Check your 12 volt ground
Check the fuses in the back under the cover
Other than that sound to be a bad control board