We have a roper electric dryer that the heating element was changed, thermal fuse was changed and the the thermostat was changed so all is new and still does not heat

Kelly

• 3740 Answers
• Posted on Apr 10, 2010

SOURCE: Maytag Performa dryer blowing heating elements

Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.

When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.

I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.

There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)

Wish ya the best.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.

SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric dryerGEW 9200 L --no heat

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


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SOURCE: electric dryer won"t heat. Kenmore Heavy Duty 70

are you getting power down to the heater?why did you change all those other parts?you need to unplug the dryer,with a meter read out all the parts you changed out again but first make sure you have 240 volts coming to the machine,you can check it at the cord in the back,touch the white to the red,you should have 110 volts or 120,then go from the white to the black and you should have the same thing,if not the problem is in the house,if it's correct make sure you have power coming down to the heater,you could have a bad timer or a burnt wire,when you check the other parts unplug the dryer and whatever part you check at least one wire has to be removed,do this and you'll find your problem,if you did this first you wouldn't of bought all those parts.let me know what you find

SOURCE: Have replaced heat element, thermostat, thermal

I'd like you to try something easy. Set the dryer to Air Fluff and see if the dryer still puts
out Heat let it run for about 2 full minutes If you dryer is still putting out Heat get back to me

SOURCE: kenmore dryer stock no. 69812 electric

Many times it is not a problem with the dryer itself. Just as in automotive and housing, when no one thing can be pinned down, look for the simplest and least expensive fix first. This would include a look at the wall plug and the power cable.. Ensure the power is off first, then unplug the unit from the wall. Check first the 220 power recepticle, then inspect the cable and all connections for signs of blackening or burnouts. Repair/replace all blackened or burned wires and cables as needed. Often times, even a dirty connection will not allow electricity to flow.