GE Profile is Buzzing

You probably had a bad connection now with pop probably separated. You may also have a bad thermal over heat device. one brand is Thermodisk. But you need to know what you are doing. Might be time to replace.

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

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i have this problem too on my GE Profile. A youtube video seems to suggest a compressor problem. Turn off the fridge for a while and let it cool down and try again? I tried but to no avail. Would someone answer this? Please :)

Unplug it now and defrost contact me after you get that done. Because the door was open the refrigerator possibly missed some defrost and the control board is confused. Let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze

That sounds like the start relay is buzzing. Unplug and lets check the compressor to see how hot and if too hot to hold your hand on the top of compressor we need to leave it unplugged until we find out if the start relay, start capacitor, overload or if the condenser fan stops after running a short while. Sea Breeze

Had this happen, was advised that it is most likely the clock board, and that there are NO internal parts available for the XL-44. Turned off the power at the breaker box, pulled the two upper back panels off (the bottom one must be removed first, as the top one has a difficult-to-access sheet metal screw on the bottom inside at either end), then just pulled the common neutral lead (white wire that daisy-chains along the various electrical bits) from the E2 terminal on the bottom left side of the clock board. Applied some heat shrink tubing to the now-disconnected neutral lead to keep it from shorting, and buttoned up everything. The clock is dead, but everything else works just fine and there's no annoying buzzing sound any more.

take the battery out of the veh and see if it will charge overnight on a charger, if not then the bat just ran its course I doubt it is 11 years old. Bats last anywhere from 3 to 5 years then they die if it does charge then your alternator needs to be replaced as it charges the battery when you drive, low voltage may cause the buzzing, tellin gyou there is a problem.

If the buzzing is a short (say 5 seconds) every once in a while, it sounds like the water is valve being energized. That would mean the icemaker is turned on and is cycling. Besides the noise, when it cycles it turns on the mold heater, which you do not need if not making ice, and thus is actually adding heat to your freezer, increasing operating cost. Just turn the icemaker off by flipping the toggle switch on the icemaker itself. It is a white switch near the bottom corner of the icemaker. Should be easy to spot.

I have a GE counter top microwave oven. When the oven starts cooking (the magnetron turns on) the oven makes a harsh buzzing noise. What is wrong and what should be done?