From what I have been able to gather online I should have a problem with my condenser fan when in actuality my car has 1 fan only

Electric Motors: dayton motor, Electric motor repair Kansas ...

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Aug 24, 2010 - Electric motor repair Kansas City MEAR Service 816-650-4030: Tyler, it is ... i have a dayton motor with no wiring diagram. i need a wiring diagram for a dayton motor with a model # 5k961c and a reference # r67745ck733 ... 1992 Dodge Dynasty Blower Motor Wiring Diagram · 1998 Ford Escort Blower ...

wiring diagram (ideally color) for Dayton belt drive motor Model ...

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Apr 29, 2012 - 9 posts - ‎3 authors
There is a sticker on motor indicating wiring, but seems only an. ... This is a motor for vented - big blade ceiling fan -- a belt driven Dayton Motor ...

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Shop DAYTON 1/4 HP Condenser Fan Motor,Permanent Split Capacitor,1075 Nameplate RPM,208-230 ... Typical HVAC Condenser Fan Motor Wiring Diagram ...

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Sounds like a problem with airflow thru the condenser. It could be an issue with the fan clutch. If it is not free-wheeling properly, it can restrict airflow thru the radiator and condenser. This will prevent proper removal of heat from the return refrigerant and reduce the cooling.

AireCo, United Refrigeration, online, electric motor shop.

Actually, on most Frost Free refrigerators (which are most refrigerators manufactured in the last 25 years) there should be a small "pan" underneath that "collects" condensate. This is a normal process as, every so many hours, a small heater comes on inside the freezer to "melt away" any of the accumulated frost. This frost melts and runs down a tube and then is collected underneath the refrigerator. The external fan underneath the refrigerator causes the condensate to eventually evaporate into the room air. You might be, either in a very humid environment and it can't evaporate fast enough, or more likely that you have a missing pan to collect the condensate. If it is missing, you might get lucky with finding a small "cookie sheet" that might fit underneath. Be careful though. You don't want to touch, AT ALL, any of the coils (looks like radiator screens) underneath, or the fan blades. Best bet if you are missing the condensate pan is probably to get your model number and search for parts at a local appliance parts store or online.

My older frost free GE Profile gets VERY hot on the sides and on the top during part of the cycle.
Is your temp indicator picking up the heat from the cycle? Check actual temp using a thermometer...hardware store should have one.
Are doors competely closed on the unit? No Food or plastic wraps/bags in the way?
Is the fan working properly, not squeaking or squealing?

There should be either a fuse and relay or both.

Your condenser fan motor should run any time the unit is calling for cooling, if the compressor is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
Hope this helps....GOD BLESS....Randy....

Sounds like the AC relay/switch is sticking on sometimes. Locate and swap this relay. Look at your fuse box lids for location or search online for the exact location. You also might have a leak in the ac lines or the AC condenser clutch is not engaging to kick the ac on. You should feel a slight power loss or hear a slight stutter in the engine when pressing your AC switch. This means everything kicked on. It's a millisecond before the ECU realizes this and kicks up the idle to compensate.

It sounds like the fan blade needs to be replaced, also.

I gather that it is the outdoor fan motor that runs a bit then stops.

Fan motors that stop by themselves are overheating and going into self-protect. The fact that you replaced the motor and capacitor opens up a whole world of "which wire is in the wrong place". I could do this if I could see it, but I can't see it. You're probably going to wind up calling a service man to sort out the wiring.