Replacing new AOSSQ1152

All electric motors run hot and pool pumps are no different. But how hot is too hot for a pool pump? The first test is simply whether you can touch the motor or not. Under normal operating conditions, the motor end of the pump is hot enough that you can barely touch it - but not searing hot.

Best to you.

https://www.google.com/search?q=XtremepowerUS+2HP+In-Ground+Swimming+Pool+Pump+Variable+Speed+running+temp&newwindow=1&sxsrf=AB5stBhpriuNhnfXLYYTg7tuS-LWwW262g%3A1690815381903&source=hp&ei=lcvHZKH_NOHi9AOquJjADw&iflsig=AD69kcEAAAAAZMfZpVdAAi94QXZiwKfN3nArsWv-Gm1z&ved=0ahUKEwjhnd6RmrmAAxVhMX0KHSocBvgQ4dUDCAo&uact=5&oq=XtremepowerUS+2HP+In-Ground+Swimming+Pool+Pump+Variable+Speed+running+temp&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IkpYdHJlbWVwb3dlclVTIDJIUCBJbi1Hcm91bmQgU3dpbW1pbmcgUG9vbCBQdW1wIFZhcmlhYmxlIFNwZWVkIHJ1bm5pbmcgdGVtcEgAUABYAHAAeACQAQCYAQCgAQCqAQC4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQE&sclient=gws-wiz#kpvalbx=_sMvHZMuPJPez0PEP3M2LgAY_44

The ground wire can go to any bolt that is grounded. It is 220 volts, so in 110 volt USA or Canada, you have two power wires of 110 volts each, a Return wire and and an Earth.

https://www.google.com/search?q=century+v214m2+wiring+diagram

Check out all the videos

https://www.google.com/search?q=century+pool+pump+motor+replacement

Or call in an electrician or pool maintenance company. It is a fast job.
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Which control panel?
White can be Com, and Black Lo, and Red/Blue Hi
But this is guessing without knowing control panel wiring.

For example T106 timer. Wires can be any color.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-106-control-208-277V-4-40.jpg
High connects to terminal 4
Low connects to terminal 1
Com connects to terminal A

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

check for 230v not 110 (on line to ground). SO checking L1 and L2 should show 230 v if not you have a fault in the timer or the breaker is toast. depending on the timer you can clean the points

could be you have a bad breaker. your old motor stresed the breaker now its weak. that motor draws 9.6 amps @ 230v i wold stay with the 15 amp, just get a new one.. jay the pool pump repair guy in longwood Florida

Hello
You have it wired correctly.Do you know what the rpm of the old motor was?Possible this motor is not the same rpm.
Also i dont know what your doing with this motor,pool possibly? Anyway be sure no check valves are stuck and all air is out of system.

Is it going to run on 230V then? If so you would normally use red and black. The white wire should be a neutral and the ground wire is obviously ground.

Do you have a meter you can use to confirm the voltage between the wires? If you do you'll want to start with red and white since you seem to think black was not being used before. If the voltage reads 230 and the motor is set up for 230 then attach one wire to L1 and the other to L2...it will not matter which is connected where as long as one is on each terminal. Insulate the black and ground the ground lead to the motor ground screw.

If the voltage is not 230 between those two check between red and black. If that is the 230 then insulate white and put red and black to L1 and L2.

John

Well first did you have an old one you're replacing? Check it. Second you could test your voltage with a tester (best idea then you know for sure). Third, you can look at the circuit breaker in your panel, and if it is a single breaker , it is 125V If it's a double pole breaker (two wide with wide handle) then it's 230V. Usually if it is 230V then the wires coming to it would both be black, or black and red, with a bare or green ground. Usually if it's 115V you'll have one black (hot), one white (neutral) and one bare or green(ground) but at times someone will wire one 230 with black and white. There should also be a large bonding copper jumper connected to a lug on the outside of the motor to bond your system to the pool (NOT AN EQUIPMENT GROUND)

MOST OF THESE ARE 230V ONLY, SO GROUND GOES ON THE GREEN SCREW ABOUT 2 O-CLOCK ON THE MOTOR AND THE OTHER 2 WIRES GO ETHER WAY ON THE 2 SCREWS . REMEMBER TO VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE FIXIT GUY ! THANKS JAY

At:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f101976
found this discussion which might be helpful:
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No surprise at all! Common problem which has been discussed several times on this site.
Basically.....tail light(s) plugs (Pig Tails) were sub-standard and cannot stand the heat of the bulbs. Pull out hear tail light fixtures, remove bulbs from recepticals and check for melting plastic, usually between the black wire (hot wire) and one or more colored wires. If so, cut out old Pig Tail, get a replacement Pig Tail, soder it in (I think about 6 wires), and use electrical shrink wrap around sodered joint, install new bulbs using Di-electric grease in the socket. Test before reinstalling light fixture.
Jack
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The poster also mentioned something I forgot; use some kind of grease in the sockets any time you have reason to access them.

The dielectric grease he mentioned is best but if you can't find (it is and electronic item, rather than electrical), even petroleum jelly will afford some protection.
I use it on battery clamps and it helps ****** the typical corrosion.
Since most cars use the chassis for ground, even the fasteners that hold in lighting assemblies can lose contact so I always loosen, then retighten them, to ensure decent ground contact.
Check too for corrosion in the light sockets themselves.

Dunno why it is so tough to seal a compartment but our US manufacturers can't seem to get it right.

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