Washer runs fine until spin cycle--will not drain, though the drain pump motor hums. Also will not spin, which I assume is related to the fact that the tub is still full of water. If we manually empty the tub, the spin cycle does kick in.

It sounds like the drain pump itself is damaged--the important clue was the humming noise. It could be bound up mechanically or the impeller could be damaged and just vibrating instead of spinning. The part number for the drain pump is WH23X10026. The fact that the pump was humming tells me that the 120v supply is being turned on by the main control board and that the wiring is good all the way to the pump. When I service customers, I try to save the pump if possible in clog cases. Most of the time, they aren't damaged from a simple clog. But, occasionally, the impeller cracks, or the nylon blade gets loose on the shaft, or the motor windings have defects from heat, etc.

The humming sound is coming from the drive motor running but unable to drive the agitator nor the basket to spin. The drive motor is definitely running as the drain function works because of the fact that drain pump is directly coupled with the rear spline of the motor. The drain pump works in either direction as long as the motor runs. The problem is obviously a broken motor coupler which transfers the mechanical energy of the motor to the transmission. The solution then is to replace the broken coupler. Click on the link below for the detailed step-by-step procedure in replacing the motor coupler.

Replacing Motor Coupler on Kenmore and Whirlpool Top-Load Washing Machines

Hi,
If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin

If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing Machine not draining and or not spinning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4784376-front_load_washing_machine_not_draining

heatman101

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If it neither drains nor spins, the first thing to check is the Lid Switch. This prevents the machine from draining and spinning if the lid is open.

I assume that you cannot hear the motor trying to turn.

Following is a Whirlpool installation and maintenance PDF on top load, direct drive washers. It has a description of how to by-pass the switch.

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, remove the two plastic clips from the console, remove the two screws under the clips, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.82872120

If it goes through the agitate cycle, the motor and transmission are probably OK.

If it goes through the initial drain / spin cycles after the first agitate cycle, the Lid Switch is also OK.

The humming could likely be the timer motor. Try to manually move the timer to the rinse cycle. If the washer responds, the problem points to the timer itself.

See the sub component section on the Sears site for the Console.

The "Alt" part numbers are Whirlpool parts that can likely be purchased from a variety of on line or local parts stores.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

If the machine starts, fills and goes through its' agitate cycle fine, the problem is likely not in the motor or transmission.

This type of washer uses a reversible motor. When turning one way, the machine agitates the clothes.

When the timer gets to the spin cycle, the motor reverses, drives the pump (directly from the motor) for a period of time and then goes into spin cycle.

This appears then that is is either the connection to the motor itself or the timer.

The timer is driven by a separate motor on the control panel so if the contacts for the spin cycle are worn, the timer will move but the motor won't turn on.

did you check to see if there was anything stuck in the pump? sometimes socks and other small articles get dow there and wont allow the washer to spin or drain

Motors hum, and your right, it could be no worse than normal.

I would be suspect that there is a gear stripped in the gearcase, since this is a direct drive washing machine.

Reassemble the motor back onto the washer. Run it through a cycle manually (rotate the timer by hand) until the motor turns, then look to see if it's turning. If it is, or even more so, if it pumps water out of the tub, then it is probably the stripped out gearcase.

Reply with you findings and more advice.

you may find that the motor is not going because of faulty capacitor or faulty timer
remove the motor from machine and try running with no loadif it works them maybe the pump is jammed or worse still gearbox is faulty

What kind of washer and do u have a model #