My fortress 200 wont move and has a continuous beep, battery is fully charged

SOURCE: ICOM IC-F11

Bad battery, Buy new one on ebay. Carl

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

SOURCE: The green light is on as though the battery is

Remove the battery, hold down the POWER button for ten seconds, then put the battery back in and charge overnight. If it still tells you it's out of power as soon as you start it, it's time for a new battery. http://store.irobot.com

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

SOURCE: read the guage,when do i know battery is fully

When the amp meter reads 0, then it is no longer drawing amps and is fully charged.

i hope this was helpful,
matthew

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

SOURCE: We have a Fortress Scientific 2000 electric

Your break release shifter is in the push the scooter mode. Put it back in gear and the horn doesn' beep and it should run..
The horn beeping is the alarm to tell you the break release is on.

It is usually located under the seat on the body of the top of the battery housing. Looks like a stick with a ball on it.

Posted on Dec 18, 2010

wcdoc1953

• 280 Answers

SOURCE: when I turn the key

The beep code will begin with 10 very fast beeps, followed by 5 slower beeps. The 5 slower beeps is your actual code. The beep code 5 is a brake fault.
The scooter may be in freewheel mode or there may be a short in the brake.
Make sure the scooter is in drive mode with the rear brake lever in the correct position. If that does not clear the fault you need to check the electromagnetic brake.
To check the brake you need a digital voltmeter. The brake should read 30 to 65 ohms when you read across the pins. You need to measure the resistance at each successive point on the harness because there are 5 connectors. While you are inspecting these plugs, check for corrosion, loose pins, broken wires, and pins not making good contact. Disassemble the front and rear halves of the scooter when you do this.
If all the resistance checks are good up to the controller plug for the brake, you have a bad controller. With that being said, I usually see a bad connection at the multiple points in-between. Sometimes the wires for the brake will melt at the connector at the controller.
Inspect these areas visually, removing the rear cover of the brake/motor/transaxle and the controller. An experienced tech should charge you under 1 hour labor for the diagnosis. You may be able to save some money by checking the obvious areas for unplugged or bad connections first.
The brake will cost about $250, the interface wiring and connectors about $50 and the controller is about $500. For this reason, you should invest in a good tech to diagnose the problem first, before proceeding with any hit and miss do it yourself repairs.
Including a second visit to install the new parts, labor cost should not exceed 2 hours total.
This is a very popular model so you should be able to find an experienced tech in your area.

Posted on Dec 23, 2010

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