I have no sound and it reads overload and tells me to turn off power. what do i need to do?

NOT A CAR/TRUCK SO MOVED TO AVR

THE AVG. AVR HAS OVERLOAD DETECTOR AND LAMP AND RELAY
THAT FAILS WHEN OVERLOADED.
PER THIS SIMPLE LIST

1. SPEAKER WIRES SHORTED.ENDTO END
2. SPEAKER SHORTED.
3. TOO MANY SPEAKERS WIRED IN PARALLEL.(THE ohms rule violated)]
4. the amps side is failing.
5. the overload detector is bad, telling lies, and shutting it down.
6. try no speakers, to see if it trips.
7. It is 1999 and is old. even bad caps inside now.

only does
Digital inputs: coaxial, optical
Video Connections: component, composite, SVHS
the rig has fan sensor failure and over temp too, and the service manual covers that.
see protector DRIVE here, it shuts down all outputs via relays.
free to read and DL.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1066247/Marantz-Sr-18-U.html?page=6#manual

With the cable unhooked that goes from power to main board that only tells the backlight section of the power board is working without regulation or overload protection, I suspect you have some bad lamps and overload or over current is shutting it down, of the issues I see with no backlights on Samsung sets about 95% of the time it's the backlights causing the issue

Sony have used integrated circuit type output modules for lots of years and the best of this type of output has overload/overheat protection but mostly cheaper variants are used that don't tolerate overload very well.

The sound can only come out of the speakers when the amplifier provides the electrical signal that is in reality the processed power supplied by the power supply. The bigger the sound, the more power has to be supplied and processed and while most domestic hi-fi will tolerate a brief overload, because mass market manufacturers don't make things any better than they need to be, lots of heat will very quickly be generated in several parts of the circuit often leading to the sort of failure needing attention from a repair shop.

If you are lucky the cost will be less than the price of a replacement...

too many cables from outlet , use dedicated power source 12 amp

It sounds like your are trying to draw too much power from the system. Try to reduce the number of trains on the track. Otherwise, your train might need a bigger power supply.

that means you are trying to pull way to much power from the receiver and it can not supply the power needed

Ovens have a thermal overload beneath the outer skin which prevents the oven from overheating. If the temperature in the cavity gets too hot the overload will operate and cut all power. When the oven cools down sufficiently the power is then restored. My guess is that this is what is occurring. If the electronic timer is faulty is doesn't normally turn off and on, it just won't work. It sounds as if the thermal overload needs replacing.

That is your compressor overload switch, and it's telling you that your compressor is overheated. Sometimes this situation will clear itself up by turning off your fridge for a few hours until the compressor is cool to the touch. This clicking problem can be caused by several things including a worn out compressor, but is often caused by turning the thermostat up and down several times in succession which overloads the compressor.Try letting it cool to the touch and restarting before trying a repair. that may be all you need to do.

Sounds like a bad amplifier IC.
Unhook all speakers at the back of your pioneer. turn it on and turn down the volume. If it's no longer in overload you have a bad speaker or speaker wires touching somewhere.
If its still in overload it's prlobley a amp IC and will cost between $25-$60 just for the part if you can replace it yourself.

u can measure the speakers impedance, if is ok. I think this can be a problem, when is speakers with 4ohm conected.