Worked for about 10 minutes

To spray paint your ATV frame matte black, you will need the following materials:

• Matt black spray paint specifically designed for use on metal surfaces
• A clean, well-ventilated workspace
• Masking tape and newspaper or plastic sheeting to cover any parts of the ATV you do not want to paint
• Primer specifically designed for use on metal surfaces
• A paint respirator to protect your lungs from inhaling fumes
• A spray gun or spray can
• Sandpaper or a wire brush to prepare the surface of the frame

Before you begin, it's important to properly prepare the surface of the frame by cleaning it thoroughly and removing any rust or old paint. Use sandpaper or a wire brush to remove any loose paint or rust. Once the frame is clean and dry, apply a coat of primer specifically designed for metal surfaces. This will help the paint adhere better and ensure a smooth finish.
Allow the primer to dry completely before applying the first coat of matte black spray paint. Hold the spray gun or can about 8-10 inches away from the surface and apply the paint in thin, even coats. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next. Once the final coat is dry, you can remove the masking tape and newspaper or plastic sheeting and reassemble the ATV.

sure , its when you want to put oil overtop the latex then you got a challenge

You basically have what is called a "cupgun" and there are a few reasons for this and it should be pretty simple to fix I want to stress that anytime you spray the paint no matter what latex-oil needs to be thinned with the compatible solvent water for latex paint thinner for oil/Alkyd by about 10% - 18% that could be the problem if you have latex in your gun but probably it has to do with the "needle seat" in the back of the gun there should be a knob to adjust the needle turn your gun on pull the trigger and turn knob till paint comes out if that wont work you may have debris in your paint that has clogged the stem pour all the paint out clean gun completely pour paint threw a strainer cone or strainer bag and be sure to thin it...

sand smooth and spray on everything. Use a low pressure spray unit. Anything else will leave marks . Remember the finish is only as good as the start so brush in a primer and then sand out brush marks then spray the undercoat and finish coats

The size tip you use depends on what you are spraying, how thin/thick it is and if you something like Flotrol to make it flow on the work better. Tip sizes are given as a decimal number and here's how to read them.
Example: .517 (the one most people, including you, need)
- The 5 means you'll get a ten inch swath of paint with the tip 12 inches from the work surface. 5's are for general painting, 2's and 3's are usually used for trim work.
- The 17 is the diameter of the orifice (.017) the paint passes through to get properly atomized. The larger the orifice, the thicker the medium you can effectively spray. .013's are used for very thin things like stain. .015's & .017's are for latex paints, .019's are for enamils, and .021 - .027 are reserved for thicker things like elastomerics.
Most likely if you are using an interior, latex paint, you'll need the .517 tip. Be sure to strain your paint so you'll get an even fan of paint and the best results. Even brand new paint has sand impurities in it that will effect the tips performance or plug up the filters.

It depends on 3 things.
What you are painting.
Whether you are applying latex, oil-base, or primer.
What size TIP you are using.
We use spray equipment and use size 17 and 19 for latex, and 11 for oil.
Double-check the size that came with your gun and look at tips at Home Depot.
Old tips wallow out and the spray pattern is irregular/uneven and the gun blows out too much paint and our material costs go up.

The manual says "dilute correspondingly"
http://www.airless.com.au/Airless%20Sprayer.pdf
Let's say you are spraying oil-base stain: I would NOT dillute this material.
Oil-base primer: 1 thinner to 4 paint
Latex primer: use a roller and brush so you have a good undercoat for the paint.
Oil-base paint: I would add 1/8 thinner with 1 paint, and be careful of runs
Latex stain: try 1 water to 4 stain
Cheap interior flat latex: 1 water to 4 paint
Latex semi-gloss interior: 1-1/8 to 4 paint and apply very thin coats and let dry between coats.
Cheap exterior flat latex: 1+ to 4 paint, and add more or less water as needed
Good exterior latex paint: use a roller and brush because the purpose of latex exterior pain is to apply heavy protective coat over outdoor materials ... dilluted exterior latex will not give sun and mildew protection.
We use heavy spray equipment and apply exterior latex straight form the can. It's the only way to give lasting job, unless you're doing a temporary playhouse.

The key to successful spraying is to strain your paint to get out the lump and clogs - BEFORE putting paint into the gun.
We always strain the paint unless it's a freshly opened can.
If can was opened yesterday, we strain it.
That because paint gets a dry film that will clog the sprayer.

First you need to mix your material, so you need a couple buckets.
Pour the paint and thinning material in 1 bucket, and then to mix, pour back and forth between two or three buckets. This action will mix the paint thoroughly and save you an hour of rotating a paint stir stick.
Next, you need to strain the paint.
Wash out a 5-gallon bucket.
Buy 5 gallon strainer that fits into bucket.
Pour material into bucket with strainer, lift strainer up and then grab end of strainer and squeeze out all the paint.
Immediately put lid over paint so no drying film will form.
Wash out strainer.
You're ready to put paint in spray gun.

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Turbine powered hvlp systems are not the ideal system for spraying latex paint. If you plan to do lots of latex spraying an airless system is recommended.

You should be using a 2.00mm or 2.5mm tip. More thinning than recommended may be necessary to get a good spray. The addition of floetrol or similar latex retarder is a good idea. A retarder will slow the drying and allow more time for the paint to level and result in less orange peel finishes

Yes is the short answer, but you will need to use a latex wet edge extender (X.I.M) makes one most paint store should carry it. You can also use a bit of water, no more than 10% or as detailed on the label.
Keep adding the extender or water until it stops shooting spatter an has a finer mist.

Hi


What size is the jet?
What compressor pressure are you using, LOW is good >20PSI
You will need quite a large jet for latex paint even thinned. I have tried a 1.8mm jet and that still clogs!! Consult your local spray painter with what size jet you need.

I am betting the standard size of 1.5mm is way too small, that type of gun is fine with the correct jet size.

i dont have so much as a solution as a couple of things you can try to figure out whats going wrong.

make sure your compressor can handle 10.5 CFM @ 50psi
hook up the gun and dry spray it to check for blockages in the air supply
if the air comes through strong and constant, fill the paint hopper with water and spray until empty
if the water comes through constant, add half of the hopper with paint thinned with penetrol or floetrol
if the paint is coming out weak or spotty, make sure the vent cap is open on the paint hopper
if the cap on the hopper doesnt have a vent, try spraying with the cap off or cracked a bit.
if that doesnt work take off the hopper and check the filter for blockages.

i suggest straining all your paint before pouring it into the hopper