Hayward H series pool heater diverter plate moves

Hi this is John the Hayward tech. If you have a millivolt heater it will only have one therm and an on and off switch. What you are describing is a electronic heater. Please call our tech line at 908-355-7995

yes, that is one of the many great features of these heaters.

Heres a link to a free PDF manual

https://www.hayward-pool.com/pdf/manuals/H-series-H100ID1-ABG1001.pdf

is this heater is been install for above the ground pool it will be better either way to use a hard schedulle 40 pvc to prevent any checking in the hoses for future leak ,is the heater connections are correct in and out , mean from the return the filter go to inlet side the heater them the outlet side of the heter (HOT WATER) GO TO RETURNS of the pool ? also check if the pump got full prime not air,is the filter is clean? also check for any brocken parts inside the flowvalve control, after years low PH AND TA will destroy internal parts in heater include leaking heater exchangers.

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

The Hayward H100 has a diverter plate welded into the header that helps direct some of the water flowing thru into the heat exchanger to heat the water. If the weld fails the diverter can interfere with that flow and cause overheating or poor flow thru the heater which in turn can lead to the problems you describe.

Remove the inlet side hose once you have blocked the flow of water from the pool and you should see the diverter in the inlet. If you can move it then it is broken and needs to be fixed back in place or the whole heat exchanger needs to be replaced.

If the diverter is not moving then your issue is likely an overall water flow one and the next place to look is the filter. Poor overall system flow may be enough to close the pressure switch telling the heater the pump is on but not enough to keep the water in the exchanger from getting too hot, again causing the symptoms you describe.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. You may also contact me thru our website at www.arrowpools.net. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

You problems could be in any of the following areas per the Hayward owner's manual. If you need help with continuing the diagnosis please comment with what specific help you need.

If you can not enlarge this enough to read it, please contact me thru our site at www.arrowpools.net and I'll email the manual to you. If you have the manual that came with the heater, your troubleshooting info is on page 38.

John

This plate is an internal by-pass if it sticks open this is what you will get if it sticks closed the water will move to fast to heat and you will get low heat after it runs way to long. If it moves freely and has the proper spring in it you will get nether of these. For my money i would replace it with a new one and be careful with your chems as this is what will kill on and after time ruin the whole heater. Figure they pay a bunch of engeneers to get it right and virturaly all heaters have these in them in one form or another. In answer to your question you will want it stuck closed, but be reminded your heater will run on about twice the gas and get you mabey two thirds the heat.

Your internal by-pass could be stuck open or the disc could be worn to the point of letting water pass too fast. Or your thermal control valve could be stuck open. These are both found in your water header going into the heater. Hope this helps, good luck.

The diverter inside your manifold is likely broken. You should stop using the heater immediately as the nocking is from water starting to boil in your heat exchanger. This can lead to a dangerous situation if a limit switch does not act in time.

Pull the inlet hose from the heater and you should see a plate just inside. If you can move it around it is broken and the fix is a new exchanger assembly.

You can fin these online and we sell them at www.arrowmotor.net

I am sorry to report that this is a very common problem for this heater. Here is more information than you want: http://forum.doityourself.com/pools-spas-hot-tubs/345253-hayward-h100id-ignites-but-cools-quickly.html