I have a plug outlet that has only one wire going to it. That wire thats the power source to that plug is a three wire red, white & black. I want to take power from that plug/power source to add a new light switch that will control a new plug outlet. How do I wire same..
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Re: I have a plug outlet that's powered by a three
Red wire is the live wire, black wire is the dead wire, white wire is the earth wire. Now its the black and the red wire we are to play with. take a two wire cable, let the wires be red and black in the new cable, connect the red and the black cables of the new cable to the corresponding red and black wires of the old cable i.e. the new cable is to be connected parallel to the old cable(the connections can be made by ripping the old cable from any point) now connect a switch to the other end of the red wire. attach the terminal of the bulb to: 1) the the other terminal of the switch 2) the other end of the black wire
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The difference between the 4 wire plug and the power source wire is that the plug has and additional seperate ground wire. Basically ttwo legs, a neutral and a ground. Your power source wire only has the two legs and the neutral (the white) which used to act as a ground. Notice that the white (neutral) is hooked up to the ground bar along with the grounds in the panel box. The "correct" thing to do is replace the wire from the panel box with the correct size/amperage wire.
How many sets of wires are coming into the box?
If the box is in the middle of the circuit you will have a power-source black & white wire coming in and a power-source black & white wire going out. And in this case for the switch - there must be a black and a white wire going to a light.
Typically with a switch/outlet combination all the white wires will splice together with a white pig-tail wire to feed the neutral side of the device. The two black wires from the power-source will splice together with a black pig-tail and feed the hot-side of the device. The black wire going to the light will go on one side of the switch.
Looking at outlet/switch device from the front the large slot side of the outlet will be the neutral side and the smaller outlet slot will be the hot side. The neutral side screws will be steel colored and the hot side screws will be brass colored. The white wires will go to the neutral side steel colored screws, and the black wires will go on the hot side brass colored screws on the outlet.
The black wire comig into the box from the light is called a switchleg and goes to a brass screw on one side of the switch. The brass screw on the otherside of the switch will be for the black wire coming from the power-source.
Hope this helps - and please:
TURN THE BREAKER OFF BEFORE YOU START WORKING WITH THE WIRES!
I am going to hazard a guess, I have lots of experience with traditional turntables, but not with USB turntables. Here is some theory that may also apply to the USBturnbable. Turntables of old and new that are not USB have a GROUND wire (a single flexible conductor not connected to the plug). The ground wire is supposed to go to the chassis of the amplifier or receiver. If it is not used. There will be a 60Hz hum added to the turntable's signal. It makes the sound garbled and unpleasant. Your turntable may have such a wire. If so, ground the wire to the chassis of the computer. If it doesn't have the wire. check to see if you have all three prongs on your terminal strip(the rounded large prong is the ground). If you don't the chassis of the computer will not be grounded so you may get the hum from that source as well. If the outlet that your outlet strip is plugged into does not have a proper ground, then that could be the source.
Check to make sure that there are no breaks of your ground between the turntable and the wall outlet. Replace the offending cables or parts until you are sure. If there is a grounding wire coming out of the turntable, connect it to the chassis of the computer. Here are some other points that are important Important: All of the power in your computer and sound system should be connected to the same phase of the breaker panel in your house If it goes into the same wall outlet. that is best. This ground issue is important in turntables. This may not be the problem, but it certainly is very possible. I worked in professional sound system design for recording studios and large venue (concert) sound systems. Whenever possible, these folks require the power to be from a unified phase and source point. on Otherwise they have serious hum issues. Have a Happy New Year, Best, mark
If you are referring to the the main power cord the plugs in from the wall outlet in your home. Then there is only one looks like a thick black cord with three female end slits and on the opposite side three pronged electric outlet plug ( standard outlet plug ). Is your power supply not turning on?
Take a 12v test light and wrap the probe with electrical tape, leave about
1/4" exposed. With the key on, ground the test light wire and insert the
probe into the outlet and touch it to the center power contact. If the light
stays out and you have a good ground, you don't have +power at the
outlet. If the fuse is good, you may have a bad wire or socket. But if it
lights up, we go to the next step. Touch the probe to a known +power
source and ground the wire to the metal side in the outlet. If you don't
get light, check the ground for the outlet socket. Repair as needed.
If it lights up, then you know you have power and ground. Check the
plug on the device you're trying to use. I hope I was of some help.
Replace the power cord to accomodate the outlet you have. You can purchase them at any hardware store for about $20. This is the easier option than trying to replace the outlet. To replace the cord follow these steps:
1. Remove the access cover on the terminal block on the back of the dryer. This is where the existing power cord is installed.
2. Remove the existing power cord from the terminal block.
3. Remove the power cord restraining clamp (if equipped). This secures the power cord at the entry point on the back of the dryer and prevents it from stressing the terminals and prevents chaffing of the outer insulation on the power cord. NOTE: Its a good idea to have this installed for safety reasons.
4. Remove the old power cord and install the new one following this color scheme at the terminal block:
RED (Hot) - 120VAC
BLACK (Hot) - 120VAC
WHITE (Neutral) - 0 VAC - Should be connected to the terminal block and grounded to the equipment cabinet via a grounding strap.
NOTE: If the power cord or wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (LEFT and RIGHT) are the two hot leads. The center conductor is Neutral.
If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
from power source black/hot wire to switch, white and bare/ground wires wire nut white to white bare to bare. run then to outlet white wire to silver screw bare to green screw. black wires to outlet from top switch to top of outlet bottom switch to bottom outlet break off fin on hot side of outlet should be brass screws dont' forget to turn off power before you start.
** Verify that the product is properly connected to a suitable power source by following the instructions below.
1. Verify that the computer and the all-in-one product have a three-prong power plug.
2. Remove the product cable from any power strips or surge suppressors, and plug it directly into a grounded (three-prong) wall outlet.
Follow the steps below to power cycle your all-in-one:
1. Verify that the unit is switched on. Disconnect the USB/Ethernet cable from the All-in-One and also disconnect power cable from All-in-One and also from wall outlet. 2. Wait 30 seconds. 3. Plug in the power cable to All-in-One and also to wall outlet.
4. Check for the functionality