"I'm not clear on what stops the
sparking once the flame lights but I assume it's a resistance change
that's sensed in the ignitor module.
You are correct. The spark module has a feed back from each of burner igniters and when it senses the flame - it stops sparking. Flames are somehow conductive.
Most likely you switched around the wires from the burner igniter and the spark module does not receive the right input.
If you turn on both burners at the same time - the ones that still having the problem - does it stop sparking?
If it does, just switch the wires around.
Also, you can check:
* The electrical connection to the stove for possible reversed polarity and proper grounding.
* Check igniters for any damages (cracked or broken ceramic insulation).
* Check for proper assembly. Perhaps there is a wire not in place, the burner cap is in correct place.
I can see you already cleaned the burners igniters. I do clean the igniters using a rubbing alcohol. Water or other liquids are not good for the spark module. If you cleaned it with a cleaner or any other kind of liquid that contains water, you may need to wait until it's completely dry.
Is there any way to keep the spark tip closed to the burner? I want to be sure there is no spark created by faulty ground.
Good luck!
I would imagine their is an improper ground to the new ignition module.
How about a MANUAL?
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Intermittent spark or ghost . Lack of or improper ground.
spark (Ghost spark occurs module ground.
when the ignition system is
in the off position at approx-
imately every 20 minutes). Check ground at outlet.
Each burner has its own little Harper/Wyman spark switch. Disconnect the spark switch that goes to the questionable and if the problem goes away then replace that switch, Those are pretty cheap, go to the Viking source for Viking parts
The switch
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The ignitor is still sparking because the 'ring' around the burner is a bit dirty and cannot 'conduct' electric current. The ignitor will arc until the flame lights, then the current flow from the ignitor unit conducts through the flame and down through the ring on the burner. Clean around the whole burner with a SOS or steel wool pad.
You say 'elements' don't heat. Oven or burners? The top burners may be arching a bit from being jostled during repair. Push them firmly back into the receticle on top. If oven element, check to ensure tight connections on back of element and make sure the sitting on brackets that hold them in place in oven.
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c
You have to identify the thermocouple by the flame. Some units run sparks constantly to insure that tha flame stays lit. If you see the thermocouple bulb by the flame it is bad and needs replaced (he may have bypassed it also let me know)
http://www.vikingrange.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m10110_viking_primer_2005.pdf
It would be helpful if you have a multi meter. Sorry you are having trouble with the repair man. I hope I can talk you through this but if he has made a mess it could be 10 times more work for you. [email protected]
Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
heatman101
....
Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have
the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip
about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven
not Heating
Oven
Problems Replacing
the Igniter
heatman101
Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
heatman101
Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have
the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip
about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven
not Heating
Oven
Problems Replacing
the Igniter
heatman101
//
Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...
Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter
heatman101
356 views
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Thanks for the reply, the thermocouple wire runs by each burner but I'm not sure how close it's supposed to be. I held it in the flame and the sparks continued so maybe it's bad. Any ideas on the electric oven buzz?
Thanks, Cleaned the burners and the ignitors still continue to spark after burners light. Any other ideas? There doesn't appear to be a separate thermocouple to turn off the ignitors. Could this problem be associated with the electric oven buzzing and failure to produce heat? Paul
The oven now works OK but the right side ignitors still stay on even after cleaning everything.
Hi, Thanks for the info. I have one aftermarket ignitor module which has slightly different contacts. There is an extra lug on the valve switch row. Through trial and error I now have 3 of 4 burners working correctly but one burner and the gas grill still continue sparking after light-off. I've checked the grounds and cleaned everything. What next? Paul
Thanks, I think the valve switches are working OK since the spark goes on and off when they're turned. I'm not clear on what stops the sparking once the flame lights but I assume it's a resistance change that's sensed in the ignitor module. On the left bank the ignitor module is original and could be wearing out. On the right bank the ignitor module is new but may not be an exact replacement or I've hooked it up wrong. Sounds like I'll just have to trial and error it from here.
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