Wiring a leviton 5625-W switch receptacle combination

Your description doesn't explain the circuit, the function of the wires or how the switch controls the outlet and whether the switch is a single pole or two-pole switch. Without such details it is difficult to visualise the circuit.

I advise before you go further to test the sensor in a known good and correctly wired outlet using a length of cable and a suitable plug for the outlet. It is possible the unit is faulty. If it functions correctly on test you will need to understand the circuit and the function of the wires before you rewire it to assure success.

Only possible if box has neutral wire
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-add-outlet.html
Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-combination-switch-outlet.html

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Easy way.. TURN OF POWER. pull the switch with the wires still attached from the electrical box. Take off one wire at a time from the old switch and place it on the new one.

usually you use the black lead for live

To run an outlet you need a neutral, which is not present. I would advise contacting an electrician.

Unless I misunderstand you, you just need to get a single switch, and a duplex outlet with a matching plate. Your hardest part will be to decide the color of the devices and plate (rectangular, double-D holes, etc. I'd suggest, that for "preserving domestic tranquility" you hire you mate (if any) as consultant on these matters.
(Wire it as it is now; that is if the switch controls the outlet the wiring should still be easy to follow.
DO turn off the power first!)

Electrician test wiring before connecting anything.
First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
Single pole is where 1 switch controls the Load (light fan motor)

Your wiring sounds like 3-way switch.
3-way is where 2 switches control same Load.
For example a hallway usually has 3-way switches.

To confirm. If old switch has 1 dark screw, 2 brass screws, and 1 green screw, then that is 3-way switch. Use Leviton LTB15, LTB30, LTB60, LTB02, LTB12 countdown timer for 3-way.
Smarthome sells product and shows .pdf manual
http://www.smarthome.com/4255/Leviton-LTB60-1LZ-4-Button-10-20-30-60-Minute-Countdown-Timer-Switch/p.aspx


2) If old switch has 2 brass screws and 1 green screw then that is single-pole switch.

3) If you are replacing single-pole switch, here are testing & wiring instructions for Leviton timer.
Remove device and separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary two wire tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Do not untwist wires that were twisted together before you started.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now you know Hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each of the other wires, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral. Timer white wire connects to Neutral wire.
If box does not contain Neutral wire, then timer white wire connects to bare ground.

Timer green wire connects to bare ground wire.
Timer red wire connects to wire going to Load.

You are replacing old switch-receptacle device.
New device also has switch and receptacle.
You want switch to control light, but not receptacle.
You want receptacle 'hot' all the time.

You have 2 cables that enter box.
Each cable has white, black and ground wires.
Ground wires are twisted together and attached to green ground screws and not discussed more.

Screws on new device:
Side 1 of device: New device has dark screw(s) or brass screws on one side ... these screws are connected together by brass plate. This side is the Hot side of device.

Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.

Cables.
One cable comes from breaker box. This cable has a Hot and Neutral wire. The Hot is black. Neutral is white.
The other cable goes to Load (light). Black supplies power to Load (light), and white connects to Neutral.
If you are uncertain which is which, testing is shown below.

Connect the device:
Side 1 of device: Black Hot goes to dark colored screw(s) that are connected by brass plate. (This is only wire connected to this side of device)
Side 2 of device: Black that goes to Load (light) connects to screw that sits opposite the switch.
Side 2 of device: White Neutral connects to screw that sits opposite the plug

One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.

How to test for Hot and Neutral
Separate wires.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on hot wire.
Now test hot wire to other wires.
Tester lights up on neutral

ok, i think what you mean is a 3-way switch- meaning two different switches that control one light and a single (pole) switch that only controls one light. you can't do that with the above switch. You need a combination 3-way and single pole switch.