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Re: Left front element does not reach temp. I tested...
You must check to see if there is 220 volts at the burner receptacle. If there isn't, replace the switch. You may also find the receptacle contacts worn and not making proper contact with the burner ends.
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Your wiring diagram and parts schematics are here in the link below. Normally the bottom element does glow read hot after a couple of minutes. Broil elements last a lot longer because they aren't used as much. There is only one Control Board. If I was guessing, I would say the temperature sensor is at fault. Elements either work, or they don't, but you can easily test continuity with a meter. Many parts are discontinued.
It is a problem with neither of the two it is the sensor reads the oven temp and shuts off the heating element when it is reached, it is called the thermal probe or thermostat.
The way power typically is supplied to the bake/broil elements is that directly off the terminal block 120volts ac is supplied directly to the elements at all times and when the touch pad is pushed a relay on the clock/eoc (electronic oven control) will close and supply 120vac so the element has 240vac to heat. you should be able to see the wire coming directly off the terminal block where the cord from the house wireing connects to,going directly to the elements and as stated above theother 120 vac from the relay to the elements (their is 2 relays,one for bake and one for broil)
As far as testing the oven sensor(temp probe) at room temp the ohms reading should be 1060-1100 ohms and as the tempature rise the ohms rise so to test it verify is 1060-1100 at room temp then heating it usinga blow dryer,match or cigarette lighter and the ohms should rise as it gets hotter and drop when its cooling
Good luck,i hope this helps and if it does help please give me 4 thumbs up
ISOLATE MAINS POWER BEFORE WORKING ON THIS APPLIANCE
Remove the back of the oven check temp controller before replacing or buying element, as this can often stop any heat being produced. The element is in front of the fan, if this model is fan assisted, remove fan, after removing element inspect to see any small hole in metal, if you see a large hole more than 10mm , this could be a sign that the fan needs cleaning. Clean fan with WD40, do not switch oven on untill fan has dried off. Then replace element, switch oven on low with door open, if you feel slight heat, go for a full test, gradually build up heat, keep on for at least 30 mins, make sure the oven reaches temp, you can expect some smell from a new element, this is protective oil, and considered normal.
Test element check for continuity across the terminals and it is getting power when switch onon. If both ok, chances are the front selector switch has blown.
Since the oven has two heating elements, if the oven does not heat up on any condition, and both broiling and baking element are not working, then
the most common fault causing the problem is a faulty temperature
probe.
The temperature probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line
on the circuit from electronic oven control to baking and broiling
element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.
The
temperature probe is tested reaching the probe, cutting or disconnecting
its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a
multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no
continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.
If
the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for
the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements
failing at the same time would be rather unusual.
If
only one element is failing, then the fault is probably the element. In
that case you can test the element removing it from the cavity, and
testing Ohms on the element. If circuit is open , then the element must
be replaced.
This is not rocket science and an OHM meter can be used for many things. Any good appliance parts place, even Wal-Mart will have a meter which can be set to test AC/DC, OHM's etc. Set the meter on OHM setting and touch the two leads on the meter together, you will see the meter arm move. This is simply a test for continuity. Now take the element out of the Range, touch one lead to one end of the element and the other lead to the other end. If you do not get any reading then there is a break inside the element and must be replaced. If you get any reading at all then the element is good and the eye switch must be replaced.
There are some parts which require knowing how many OHM's but in this case you just need to check for a break inside the element (continuity).
You can check an extension cord this way or set it on the volts setting and check batteries. all kinds of fun.
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