Check continuity on a flame sensor

If the dryer doesn't heat, the igniter might be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer igniters burn out over time.
Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn't heat, the flame sensor might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.
If the above check out OK, check the high level thermostat, although not common, if the dryer doesn't heat, the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for continuity. If the thermostat is "open circuit" the dryer doesn't heat.

Hello there and welcome to fixya there are several things that could make this dryer not heat up
Here are the most common things

Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn\'t heat, but the drum
turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer
from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is
blown, it will have to be replaced.




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Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric
solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner
assembly. If the dryer doesn\'t heat one or more of the solenoids may be
defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame
doesn\'t light, replace these coils as a set.


Dryer Igniter


If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the igniter might
be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer
igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.

Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can
burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element should be
checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must
be replaced if defective.

Heating Element Assembly

the heating element assembly on an electric
dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the element
assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly
cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.

Flame Sensor



Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the
heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn\'t heat, the flame sensor
might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not
as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


High Limit Thermostat


Although not common, if the dryer doesn\'t
heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for
continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn\'t heat.


Cycling Thermostat




The cycling thermostat regulates the
temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn\'t heat it may be
caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at
fault when the dryer doesn\'t heat. Check all of the other components in
this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The
main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is
defective.


Timer
The timer is normally not at fault if the
dryer doesn\'t heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they
end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this
troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer

Hello there and welcome to fixya

Here are the most common things that will need to be checked with a meter to ensure there is continuity on these parts no continuity means that the part is bad and needs replacement ok?

Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn't heat, but the drum turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is blown, it will have to be replaced.


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Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner assembly. If the dryer doesn't heat one or more of the solenoids may be defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame doesn't light, replace these coils as a set.


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Dryer Igniter

If the dryer doesn't heat, the igniter might be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


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Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element should be checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Heating Element Assembly

The heating element assembly on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Flame Sensor

Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn't heat, the flame sensor might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


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High Limit Thermostat

Although not common, if the dryer doesn't heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn't heat.


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Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn't heat it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


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Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer doesn't heat. Check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is defective.


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Timer

The timer is normally not at fault if the dryer doesn't heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer

test all this steps in according with your model, electric or gas. God bless you

Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn't heat, but the drum turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is blown, it will have to be replaced.


Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.
Help me find my model number

Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner assembly. If the dryer doesn't heat one or more of the solenoids may be defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame doesn't light, replace these coils as a set.


Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.
Help me find my model number

Dryer Igniter

If the dryer doesn't heat, the igniter might be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.
Help me find my model number

Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element should be checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.
Help me find my model number

Heating Element Assembly

The heating element assembly on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.
Help me find my model number

Flame Sensor

Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn't heat, the flame sensor might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.
Help me find my model number

High Limit Thermostat

Although not common, if the dryer doesn't heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn't heat.


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Help me find my model number

Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn't heat it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.
Help me find my model number

Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer doesn't heat. Check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is defective.


Enter your model number to see parts for your dryer.
Help me find my model number

Timer

The timer is normally not at fault if the dryer doesn't heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer.

What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Might be the flame sensor. if it is open the ignitor won't light off. Check this part
for continuity. Number 59. If it is open now power can get to the gas assembly. Clean out the duct work and filter housing if that puppy is blown.

When the drum temp is below 105f the control Klixon throws the power onto the gas valve assembly. The flame sensor,ignitor, and solenoids are all powered up at the same time but the solenoids won't kick in until the ignitor drops out. The flame sensor bi-metal bends with the heat from the ignitor and open the circuit to it. The solenoids then have the power to ****** open the gas valve and raw gas flows out onto the hot ignitor and lights off. The burn last only till the drum temp reaches 160f which takes not time. When that temp gets to 160 the control opens and power is removed from the gas valve assembly. This goes on throughout the drying process. So what goes wrong? Open sensor, bad ignitor, faulty solenoids that quit after working a tiny bit. Blown or tripped thermal limit. bad control tstat. And me fave: unpaid gas bill.



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The first thing I would do is see if power is getting to the gas assembly. If I could not get any power going to the assembly I would check the duct fuse to see if it has continuity.If it was good I would check the control thermostat for continuity. If I am getting power to the gas assembly I check the flame sensor, if it is open then the ignitor won't glow and you will have no heat. If the sensor is good I would check the ignitor , if open you would have no heat. If that dryer works a little bit but then stops heating then that is a sign of old weak solenoids.

If that duct fuse is blown clean out the blower housing


Repair videos and more HERE

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Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101''';;

Check the flame sensor for continuity(if open no heat)
Check the ignitor for continuity(if open no heat)



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Hello
Welcome to Fixya


Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer.
If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot!
If not then it's another one of these problems.

Defective Ignitor (Gas Only)
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature
in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking.
A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change
the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly.
You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of
resistance.

If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is
no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve
coils that are defective.

If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.

If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective.
The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats,
limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor
during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
DRYER DOES NOT HEAT



Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.



Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only)
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat
to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a
continuity check under room temperature.

Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position,
the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started.
However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor
will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite.
In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of
time.



Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature
in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode.
It can prevent the element from heating at all.
A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw.
These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.


Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor.
If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according
to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
If it is open, it will need to be replaced






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