Question about Food Processors
Cuisinart DLC-7--plastic sheath on metal shaft was loose before using. Inserted blade and after making a batchof food, blade will not come off.
I allowed it to cool, but still cannot remove blade.
First off, is it a BLADE that's stuck, or a DISC?
If it's a disc, and the disc is blocking your access to the center post, put a ziploc baggie full of ice on top of the disc (right in the middle) and let it sit for about half an hour. That should shrink the plastic enough to pop it out.
If it's a blade, you can try the ice trick, or you can try Pam (or another food grade cooking spray) to loosen it up, and then just try to take the workbowl off like you usually would (aka, DO NOT grab the blade, or you'll risk cutting yourself--you can just pull up on the bowl, and the blade should pop off.
If you need further help, you can always contact Cuisinart--their phone number (according to their website, www.cuisinart.com ) is 1 800 726 0190
Good luck! :)
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
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I have a DLC7pro from around 1982 that I just replaced the sheath on.
To remove the sheath I use a small pipe cutter and took the sheath off in approximately ½ inch sections. Once the circular cut was complete I used a plier to pull off the section. - This method worked GREAT! Be sure you get ALL of the white plastic off and be sure to remove the ½ inch brass "ring" which is part of the old sheath. Also, make sure no plastic "crumbs" are in the base of the shaft where the new sheath will sit. You will see that the metal shaft has a flat side. With a sharpie marker, mark the metal shaft near the base to indicate where the center of the flat side is.
When you look at the replacement sheath, you will notice flat sides on the outside of the sheath. If you look inside the sheath, you will see two "nubs", these nubs form a flat inner side of the sheath . Unfortunately these nubs do NOT line up with the flat outside sections. Use a sharpie marker to mark the center point of the two inner nubs. The inner flat side HAS to match up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft. The marker helps you do that.
Line the inner flat side of the sheath up with the flat side of the metal shaft and push the sheath on your hand as far as it will go. It should go about an inch from the base.
Put the base on a mat on the floor ( you don't want to damage your floor) . Next you will need a hammer, piece of 2x4 wood and BRUTE STRENGHT! - Please note that once you hammer this, even just one strike and the sheath will NOT come off. Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath. Using more force than you think you should need - strike the wood to hammer the sheath all the way down. It should take 3 - 5 very hard strikes. If the base of the sheath rubs on the bottom of your workbowl - they will fuse together, so be sure the sheath is seated as far down as you can get it. Again, it takes a LOT
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