Cuisinart DLC-7--blade stuck--cannot remove from bowl.

If the unit works OK with other attachments and the problem is only with the one cup; then the blade may be loose and spins on the shaft, the connection gear under the bottom is worn or binding up. Debris is stuck around the blade shaft or from heating up the metal parts expanded and bind when turning.

my friend if you had not removed that blade for a while it will certainly stuck due to the moisture that forms on the shaft of the blade holder causing it to have corosion you will have to carry that item to be removed by a qualified tech by you doing it your self could cause damage,which could cost you more.good luck

I have a DLC7pro from around 1982 that I just replaced the sheath on.

To remove the sheath I use a small pipe cutter and took the sheath off in approximately ½ inch sections. Once the circular cut was complete I used a plier to pull off the section. - This method worked GREAT! Be sure you get ALL of the white plastic off and be sure to remove the ½ inch brass "ring" which is part of the old sheath. Also, make sure no plastic "crumbs" are in the base of the shaft where the new sheath will sit. You will see that the metal shaft has a flat side. With a sharpie marker, mark the metal shaft near the base to indicate where the center of the flat side is.

When you look at the replacement sheath, you will notice flat sides on the outside of the sheath. If you look inside the sheath, you will see two "nubs", these nubs form a flat inner side of the sheath . Unfortunately these nubs do NOT line up with the flat outside sections. Use a sharpie marker to mark the center point of the two inner nubs. The inner flat side HAS to match up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft. The marker helps you do that.

Line the inner flat side of the sheath up with the flat side of the metal shaft and push the sheath on your hand as far as it will go. It should go about an inch from the base.
Put the base on a mat on the floor ( you don't want to damage your floor) . Next you will need a hammer, piece of 2x4 wood and BRUTE STRENGHT! - Please note that once you hammer this, even just one strike and the sheath will NOT come off. Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath. Using more force than you think you should need - strike the wood to hammer the sheath all the way down. It should take 3 - 5 very hard strikes. If the base of the sheath rubs on the bottom of your workbowl - they will fuse together, so be sure the sheath is seated as far down as you can get it. Again, it takes a LOT

The shaft is spinning inside the sleeve. So is should not be hard to remove. With a DLC-7SP, I grabbed the spindle with some pliers, channel locks might do well and put a handle of a screwdriver between the pliers and the top deck and pried. Second attempt and it pulled up easily. Place the screwdriver beside one of the top deck screw covers to transfer force directly to the motor. Otherwise top deck would probably break.

Clean the old shaft to remove any contamination.

New one can be driven on with a hammer and block of wood.

I just called Cuisinart customer service. Depending on your model, it sould be under warranty. They sent me a new shaft sheath immediately with no expense.

STOP USING CAPS!

I had the same problem: Cuisinart sent a "replacement" sheath for my DLC-8E which turned out to be the wrong one. When I replaced mine,which was cracked, none of my blades would fit over the new sheath! I "solved" the problem by purchasing a new DLC-8E motor base on Ebay for only $9.99!

The DLC-8 blades and the DLC-7 blades are not compatible. To attach the stem, first attach the stem to one of the compatible blades - the stem should day "DLC-7" for the DLC-7 blades - by inserting the first two tabs of the stem into the first two ridges of the blade connector - the left-most tab should be sticking out past the end of the blade connector - then slide the stem into place so that all tabs fit securely into the blade connector. Next, place the end with the blade up and insert the stem into the middle of the workbowl. There is a video for all Cuisinart food processors on the Cuisinart website.

-Tha Mp3 Doctor

I have a DLC 7 pro circa 1982 - just replaced the sheath. First - remove old sheath - I found that using a plumbers pipe cutter to cut old sheath off in sections then pulling each section off with pliers works great. Make sure ALL the plastic comes off the metal shaft - as well as the brass ring portion of the sheath.

Next use a sharpie marker to mark the the "flat" side of the shealth = you must look inside the sheath, find the 2 "nubs" that form a "flat" side. These nubs must line up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft - mark the base of the shaft as well so you can more easily line up the flat of the sheath with the flat side of the shaft (and no, the flat outer sides of the the sheath do not match up with the flat inside section of the sheath - that would make life too easy!)

Press the new sheath on with your hand as far as it goes - should go down to about 1 inch from the base.

Now you need a hammer, piece of 2 x4 wood and brute strenght! (keep in mind that once you hammer it - even once - it will NOT come off) Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath - Use a LOT of force to hammer the sheath all the way down. will probably take 3 - 5 good strikes. It will take much more force than you think you should need to use. Make sure the base of shaft is as far down as possible - if it rubs against the workbowl while spinning it will fuse to the bowl! Good luck! -

On the DLC 7 Pro cuisinart the blade was removed by removing
the plastic bottom. Make sure the unit is unplugged. Remove the four rubber pads on the bottom. This was the hardest part because the pads are glued so securely that the inner rubber surface tears as it's removed. I used two flat blade screwdrivers and worked carefully, back and forth. Using a #2 philips, remove the four screws. Place the unit on its side and while inserting a screwdriver between a spoke and the motor frame gently turn the blade counter clockwise. Be careful not to put pressure against the cooling fins. Very little pressure was needed and the blade came right out. I might have been able to hold the shaft from turning without removing the bottom, by going through the vent slots in the bottom, but I was concerned with cracking the plastic. To replace the rubber pads I matched the design of the torn rubber pad with the shape (design) of the surface glued rubber and used thin two-sided tape.