Dryer has no heat.Changed the heating coil rear bearing and front glides also the small fues top left beside the heating coil.Had heat for a short time no heat now.
Re: Dryer has no heat.Changed the heating coil rear
Maybe you already know this, but occasionally the coils will swell when you first turn them on and they expand to the point of arc'ing off the housing. This puts you right back to square one. I learned the hard way to buy the entire assembly when changing and not just the coil. Not sure if this is your problem or not, but worth another check. I believe the next step would have to be in the control system.
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The GE dryer has a 120 volt motor. In case of lint build-up and air restrictions manufacturers install a non-resetable limit which is tied in with the door circuit. When the dryer overheats above 300f this limit kills the dryer.
Their is another 250f limit that mounts on the opposite side of the pan. The control klixon mounts on the blower housing The 2 smaller terminals fire off a small heater inside the control which makes it shut down faster for delicate and perma-press cycles. Clever no? The heater element mounts on the rear of the dryer The drum rides on a central bearing in the middle on the back side. This small plastic bearing will get thin and begin to sing a song: squeek, squeek, squeek! The front of the drum rides on slides. They get thin and tend to pinch clothes bind on the drum mount and generally make the motor bog down in some cases. In the past the old school GE dryer drum rides on these glides: You get into the dryer by opening the door and removing the screws holding down the top: Note: I worked one recently that simply had spring clips between the top and front panel, hay we don't need no stinking screws! After popping them clips on each end the top comes off there and has a green grounding wire that attaches to it. Then disconnect the screws and lid switch and remove the front panel: Push downwards on the idler and release the belt. Grab holt of that belt and use it to help you remove that drum: Once you get that drum out the innards look like this: The belt goes around the drum with the ribbed side down. A twisted belt is a belt that is gonna get destroyed the minute you start that dryer. Make sure it ain't twisted. Note: GE uses different sized belts and different parts for components per production run. Make sure you give your model number (inside the door) to get the correct belt,element, glides, bearing,etc. They are not all the same. You can cut yourself easily on the stamped metal frame so be careful when wrangling that belt back on: Tip: To get the belt on there you gotta have 3 hands. Yank the idler from right to left till it is over the motor pulley then get a friend to hold that in place with the broom handle while you loop the belt over the top of the idler and under the motor pulley; then grab the idler and ease it back enough to remove the handle. Then let it go and all will be well. Give the drum a turn by hand and see if the belt is twisted. If the heater element is broken their is no need in buying the whole pan. The kit comes with directions to pre-stretch the coils to 42 inch's for the inner circle and 48 inch's for the outer circle. You want no gaps on in your restring because that would make the coil die quickly.
Lets talk gas heat for a moment: The gas dryer has the Flame sensor, ignitor, and coils like you might see in many other makes of gas dryers. When the control calls for heat it powers up the gas assembly. The ignitor, flame sensor,and coils are all energized at once. The coils will not operate unless the resistance in the circuit changes. To do it the ignitor and flame sensor has to be removed from the circuit.
The flame sensor has a bi-metal strip in it which opens and kills power to the ignitor.
With both the flame sensor and ignitor out of the circuit the coils yank open spring loaded valves and the raw gas ignites on the hot surface ignitor. When the heat is about 160f in the drum (which takes no time) then power is removed from the gas assembly the heat goes off and the clothes tumble on till the temp inside the drum gets to 105f and then power is once more applied to the gas assembly. If the heat works some but quit those coils are getting hot and quiting.
Nothing is hard about repairing a good old GE dryer. I am including a video I found online a guy made on an older GE dryer; so that you can get an idea on fixing both older GE dryers and the newer ones.
That's all the smart pills I have for today. Rate it or Hate it:
see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer
too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all
the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove
the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each
other or anything else.
Heating Element Assembly
A defective heating element assembly can make
a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce
heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat.
Remove the heating element assembly to inspect it. The coils should not
be touching each other or anything else.
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work
properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean
all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling
thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is
supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature.
If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The
thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced. Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and
rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is
worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too
hot. This is not common.
Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin
properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check
to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
A loose belt often makes a squeak that pulsates with the clothes hitting the paddles in the drum. It's probably the upper drum glide or rear bearing. If it's a constant screech coming from the front, it's probably the glide. If the noise seems to be in the back, suspect the bearing. You might check for a sock or something small that is stuck somewhere between the drum and the dryer.
The drum rides on glides in the front and a center bearing in the rear. Those glides are probably gone. Unplug the dryer and remove these screws then raise the top. Remove these screws and lift off the front to check those glides If it is scrubbing you probably need to not only replace the glides but the glides mount also (called a bearing oddly enough).
Remove the drum and inspect the rear bearing for wear
If you glides were worn out then your center bearing was probably near death too. Did you remove the drum and check it? I would say if you did remove the drum maybe you did not place it back in the cradle and now the drum is rubbing the heater coils. Better take back apart and give it a looksee.
You will be looking at the front glides that the drum rides on, the glides are probably gone and the drum is rubbing on the plastic glide holder....if it is damaged will need to replace the front drum bearing/glide holder and all of the glides, usually about 4 of them.
If it is the drum front glides the noise will be from the front area, right behind the front panel at the top. If the noise is from the center rear of the dryer your drum bearing is gone, need to replace this also if you have to take this dryer apart..
You said, DRYER MAKES VERY LOUD NOISE WHEN RUNNING. ALTHOUGH IT HEATS UP AND
BEGINS TO DRY, IT STOPS RUNNING COMPLETELY AFTER ABOUT 5 MINUTES. IF
YOU WAIT AN HOUR, YOU CAN START IT AGAIN, BUT IT AGAIN SOUNDS VERY LOUD
(ALMOST A RATTLING SOUND) AND THEN SHUTS OFF AFTER 5 MINUTES Faulty Blower Wheel If you hear a great deal
of noise coming from the blower area of the dryer when it is running,
then the blower wheel could be defective.
The are many different
designs for blower wheels and just as many unique failure modes. Vanes
(fins) can break off the wheel and bounce around in the blower breaking
more pieces. The blower can break around the coupler with the shaft.
This can cause the blower to spin loosely on the shaft. The blower can
form cracks which cause it to vibrate, etc.
You should also not
be surprised to find foreign debris in the blower. The occasional
bird, rodent or squirrel has been known to bypass the out vent cover.
If they crawl into the exhaust tube the first thing they come into
contact with is the blower wheel.
If the blower wheel is not
spinning, or if it is missing vanes, it is not moving air efficiently.
As a result, heat is not removed from the heat source and it can trip
the high limit switch or blow the thermal cut-off. Worn Belt A worn belt can stretch
and/or become brittle with age. The belt can then slip on the drum or
motor to cause squeaking. If this is the case, the solution is to
replace the worn belt.
The belt is not the only item that can
cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn
drum bearings, worn drum glides or worn drum rollers depending on brand
and style.
When replacing the Belt is is a good idea to also change the Drum
Support Rollers, Drum Glides, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these
items are economical easily changeable when replacing the belt. The
upside is that your dryer will operate like new.
Recent Customer Symptoms: Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise. Worn Drum Glides Some
dryer models are equipped with Drum Glides. The front of the dryer
rests on these glides. They provide a low friction surface on which
the drum spins. After time however, this glides wear down. Much like
an automobile brakes, these glides make a load grinding noise when they
wear thin. This griding against the drum usually leaves a bare metal
stripe that is visible at the point of contact. If the glides are
worn, the solution is to replace them.
The drum glides not
the only items that can cause squeaking. It can also be caused by a
faulty idler pulley, worn drum bearings, a worn belt or worn drum
rollers depending on brand and style.
When replacing the Drum Glides it is a good idea to also change the
Drum Support Rollers, Drum Belt, Idler Pulley and Clips. All of these
items are economical and easily changeable when replacing the glides.
The upside is that your dryer will operate like new. Worn Rear Drum Bearing Some
dryer models are equiped with a Rear Drum Bearing. The rear of the drum
rests on this bearing. It provides a low friction surface on which the
drum spins. After time however, this bearing will wear down. If the
bearing is worn, the solution is to replace it.
The rear drum
bearing not the only item that can cause squeaking. It can also be
caused by a faulty idler pulley, worn drum glides, a worn belt or worn
drum rollers depending on brand and style.
When replacing the rear drum bearing it is a good idea to also change
the drum glides, drum support rollers, drum belt, idler pulley and
clips depending on make and model. All of these items are economical and
easily changeable when replacing the rear drum bearing. The upside is
that your dryer will operate like new. Worn Drum Support Rollers Some
dryers such as Whirlpool/Kenmore brands are equipped with Rear Drum
Support Rollers. The weight of the dryer drum rests on these rollers.
They provide a low friction surface on which the drum spins when in
operation. After time however, these rollers wear down. When they
wear, often times they begin to elongate and form a non-round 'cam'
shape. The result is that when the dryer is turned on it creates a
rumble that sounds as though you are trying to dry a pair of tennis
shoes. This sound is usually the drum being forced up and down on the
non-round wheels. If the rollers are worn, the solution is to replace
them.
When replacing the Drum Rollers it is a good idea to
also change the Front Drum Glides, Drum Belt, Idler Pulley and Clips.
All of these items are economical and easily changeable when replacing
the glides. The upside is that your dryer will operate like new.
Whirlpool Kenmoremodels have a dryer maintenance kit that contains all of these items in a single kit.
Recent Customer Symptoms: Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.
Recent Customer Symptoms: Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.
Recent Customer Symptoms: Dryer makes loud noise when turned on. Dryer works and heats up OK but makes too much noise.
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YOU MOST LIKELY HAVE A REAR DRUM BEARING FAILING. IT IS A SMALL TEFLON BEARING THAT SLIPS ON OVER THE REAR SHAFT OF THE DRUM AND INTO THE HOLE IN THE REAR OF THE DRYER. THERE ARE ALSO FRONT GLIDES THAT SUPPORT THE FRONT OF THE DRYER. OLDER DRYERS HAVE THE FRONT SUPPORTS UNDER THE DRUM SO THE DRUM RESTS ON THEM. NEWER G.E. DRYERS HAVE A PLASTIC RING WITH THREE TEFLON GLIDES ON TOP OF THEM AND THE DRUM HANGS FROM THESE GLIDES. REPLACE ALL OR SOME OF THE ABOVE PARTS TO ELIMINATE YOUR SQUEAK.
ON OTHER POSSIBILITY, THE IDLER PULLEY THAT KEEPS TENSION ON THE BELT CAN BECOME A SQUEAK MAKER.
The 417 dryers have two seals on the front panel, the top seal has drum glides which wear down over time. Because the drum rests on those glides, when it wears down it leaves a gap between the drum and the seal, clothes will drag in that gap and come out with rust and/or seal adhesive stains. Try replacing the top and lower seals, this works most of the time...sometimes though, if left unattended long enough, the lack of support from the front glides causes too much strain on the rear drum bearing, and even after replacing the seals clothes may still catch, although the brown spotting will stop for awhile. You can feel the gap if you run your hand along the inside of the drum at the seal point.
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