Question about Refrigerators
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The 1030 may fit
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Posted on Jul 16, 2019
If you have a side by side model you need to look at the refrigerator compartment wall on the left of the bottom drawer and move the slide control to the warmer/fruit/vegitable setting instead of the meat setting.
I hope this helped. Please rate my help or ask for more help please. supertechks
Posted on Apr 06, 2008
I also could not find the drain plug that everyone is saying to clean out. The only obvious things were styrofoam coated vents that went down to the fridge.
I have the same fridge with the sheet metal and cardboard in the back. My mfg. date is 6-04. That date is found near the ser. # and model #. My Whirlpool model # is ET1chmxkb03 THERE IS NO DRAIN TUBE RUNNING DOWN THE BACK!! It is all internal. Here is how I fixed the problem.
First, unplug the fridge. Empty all contents from the freezer and remove the shelf. Your food will be fine. Tell your wife not to worry!! You're going to need to remove the entire back panel of the freezer. Not hard. Remove the ice maker by unscrewing the single bottom screw and LOOSENING the two screws located above the ice slots. No need to remove them. they simply hang the icemaker in place. unplug the wiring assembly from the ice maker. set ice maker in sink if it has ice in it.
I had a lot of ice in the bottom and back of the freezer so i carefully chiseled and cleaned as i went. try using some hard plastic pointy thing to chisel. if that doesn't work use a screwdriver VERY CAREFULLY. I am not responsible for damages. ha.
the plastic "Y" shaped piece that covers the fan needs to come off. gently push down from the top to undo the two tabs that are holding the top to the wall. any resistance you feel is ice holding everything together. a hair dryer can also be useful to loosen things up. its going to get watery so keep towlels ready to sop up.
After the "Y" piece is off, you should only have two nuts or screws at the top of the panel. undo these and work off the panel. careful to push the wiring harness through the hole and the ground wire simply clips on the metal panel.
if you have a lot of ice at the bottom you'll feel resistance getting the panel off. scrape off as much ice as you can from the bottom and work the panel back and forth until it comes free. there is nothing holdin the panel in place at the bottom. it's just the ice.
when the panel is off you'll seea thin aluminum pan at the bottom probably covered in ice. keep chiseling (carefully) and you'll come across the drain hole everyone keeps telling you to unplug. this is the start of the tube that comes out into the pan under the fridge. i kept chiseling until there was no ice left anywhere in the freezer. always wiping and cleaning with the towels. there is also ice under the thin aluminum sheet. try to find a way to get this ice out too.
i tried several ways to get the ice out from inside the drain tube. even a little salt. boiling water from a turkey baster worked the best. my ice was frozen down about an inch so it took a few tries.
my drain pan was bone dry at the beginning of all this so i kept looking for water down there. finally it showed up.
pour little extra hot water down there for good measure and if you have some kind af flexible tubing to snake down there to clean it out it would be a good idea. 1/4 inch fish tank air tubing woorks pretty good. there are some bends in the drain tube so you might have to work it down.
hopefully this will fix the problem. reverse the steps to put everything back together being sure to reclip the groundwire to the icemaker. put the food back in the freezer and tell your wife instead of griping about the food being left out, maybe she should thank you for being a he-man and saving the family $500 by fixing the friggin thing yourself!!
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
I had the same problem. Apparently the problem is the main control board. According to the technician that came out to fix mine there is a design flaw and these boards are very sensitive and can blow a circuit or malfunction from the slightest power surge. What happens then is that the control board doesn't "tell" the fan to turn on and off at the right time so the fridge and freezer warm up too much before the fan kicks in and then it cools everything down but since the fan isn't running at the correct intervals and circulating the air all of the cold air settles to the bottom which causes the produce in the drawers to freeze while the top shelves get warmer. I had done a fair bit of research before calling GE and came to the conclusion that this was a common problem. So I pressed them and was able to get the fee for the part waived (before I made the service call appointment) which was around $150. The part now has a 5 year waranty which I find funny, because I'm not sure why it wouldn't have that upfront as my refridgerator is only 2 years old. Whatever!! Unfortunately, unless you have indepth knowledge of refridgerator repair there is no way around the service call and labor. Anyone buying a new model of refridgerator (any company) should consider an extended waranty. The service tech also told me that all refridgerators made after 2001 are required, by law, to have an electronic mother board which in all likelyhood will fail at somepoint prior to when you are ready to buy a new fridge!
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
You mean you have a door gasket. A good, step-by-step article on this pesky concept of "panel-screw" gasket installation is found on this handy page:
This should help!
Posted on May 25, 2009
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