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The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:The defrost timerThe defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch this part testing video
this sounds like your freezer is operating properly, except that the drainage of the water when going through the defrosting mode is not draining properly, pooling on the bottom of the freezer and then freezing. Check the drainage hose for the defrost in the lower pan. I would remove everything, place in ice chest, let the unit completely thaw out and then inspect. I hope this is beneficial.
I'd let it dry out totally then try it again, some of the electronics may have gotten wet when you defrosted it. Give it a week somewhere warm and dry like a garage. If you didn't attack built up ice in the freezer with a knife while defrosting it it should work after it dries out. Most people end up killing freezers by accidently poking holes in the evap coil while trying to remove built up ice.
Yes it can, but you are going to need special equipment. Such as a vacuum pump to remove the air, Touch to repair the hole or replace the evaporator that you poked the hole in. Along with a set of gauges and refrigerant. This is not a job for the average DIY'er and even as a pro I only repair sealed systems (leaks, compressor, etc..) if they are under warranty because it's a time consuming and costly job other wise. If the refrigerator has any age on it then you may want to start shopping around for a new one.
This is likely a manual defrost freezer, which means you have to remove the food, unplug the unit, and let the ice melt on its own. Do not, and i repeat, DO NOT poke the ice away from the walls. I guarantee if you poke the ice away from the wall, you'll poke a hole in the wall, and force yourself to buy a new freezer.
SLOWER IS SAFER. put some boiling water, in the pot, inside the freezer, or use a hair dryer.
Hello. If your freezer is not a self defroster, you must have had a power failure for a few hours that caused a melt with water ending up on the floor of the freezer and then refreezing. IF you have a self-defrost model, your defrost cycle produces some water which should make it's way down to the evaporator tray just above the floor... in your case, the small hole in the floor is plugged and the water is accumulating on the floor rather than making it's way to the evaporator tray. The fix is to clean the evaporator tray, defrost the ice with a blow dryer, locate the hole and clean it out with a couple of pipe cleaners or cotton swabs. Regards, Joe
PS please rate my answer. thank you.
Most probably defrost thermostat is defective. Unit never goes into defrost, ice forms on coil and in floor of freezer.
After defrosting may work OK for a week or two but gradually gets
warmer because ice is blocking ports where cool air gets to refrig. May
also have water in refrig box. Can also be caused by defective defrost
timer. This can also be caused by the drain hole being blocked by ice. You MUST remove all ice in drain under freezer coil. Use turkey baster to squirt hot water into hole and use hairdryer to defrost.
The defrost system has failed and is not de-icing the coil or, the door is not sealing tight or too much time open allowing excess humidity to enter the chamber, thereby overcoming the capabilities of the defrost system. The system has a defrost timer someplace, check to see if it is running. If not, you can probably advance it into a defrost cycle with a screwdriver. (turn the shaft slowly until a click is heard and the system stops) Allow 20 or 30 minutes for the coils to defrost, and restart with the screwdriver if it has not took off on it's own. If the timer is found not running, replace it.
You should check for air leaks around the door gasket or any other openings in the compartment such as where pipes or wiring is going through the wall. It sounds like a moisture problem from moisture being drawn into the compartment pass door gaskets or access holes.
After a defrost cycle the ice around the evaporator melts, that water goes out and lands in a tray under the refrigerator. But sometimes the tube gets clogged and water spills inside the freezer and if enough water accumulates, it will make it to the floor. To fix this problem look for a small hole inside the refrigerator and open it up using a can of compressed air. Hope this helps
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