Question about Pioneer PureVision Pro-800HD 43 in. Plasma HDTV
I am trying to fix this myself since it seems pretty expensive to buy these PSU boards. This one is an AXY1059 C which is used in a variety of Pioneer and Hitachi Plasma TVs.
I attempted to replace the shorted parts and now had a new explosion, I must have missed something.
Here is what I did first time around. I replaced Q127 (FET K2651), it was shorted all ways. I had to replace R217 (.47 ohm near Q127) and R133 (.1 ohm) both were blown apart (the loud pop/flash).
After replacing these, I thought I was fixed, but When I turned it on, it made an even bigger explosion, not quite what I wanted to see.
Now Q129 (SMT transistor AY6) blew off of the PCB and R217 is blown apart again. But what is worse, is an SMT resistor (R218 connecting to Q129) blew off the PCB and I have no idea what its value is.
I also need the value of C164 as it was missing on my TV, I put a 220uf cap in for now as a best guess for filtering. No idea why it was gone.
Does anyone know the values of these parts, or what all to replace to get it working again? I am willing to shotgun all suspect parts now that I have seen the way this thing explodes if I miss something (I suspect Q129 was bad and I didn't see it).
I'm working the same problem. Q127 shorted, R217 & R 133 open. Also have solder blown off one end of R222 and R351 (both sm 200 ohm). Looks like small, short trace evaporated on top layer between D145 and via directly below it. Q129 is open all ways (but not exploded).
This one has C164 installed as 1200 uf, 10V.
Any success getting your going again?
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
Wow !, I have just done the same thing. I replaced all the same stuff you guys did and I was still missing some low voltages I tried to scope some patterns. The main problem here is no schematics show the power supply board I have a hitachi (pioneer pdu50wx2a) rebadge. The good news is the updated board is an axx1064 it`s an update to the board we are working on. around 330.00 I would get it from pioneer at least you know you will be getting an updated board.
Posted on Mar 17, 2010
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If it's failing to turn on, the main power supply is probably at
fault and without some technical background and a couple of test instruments,
you will not be able to do the repair yourself.
What you can do though is; unplug the set, let it stand overnight or at least several hours, remove the back panel and look for a separate board with mostly larger components on it; it will have a ferrite core (no laminations as with a line-frequency part) transformer on it and several larger capacitors which are cylindrical and mounted vertically to the board.
You may find one or more fuses on this board as well.
Before touching anything inside, especially on that board, allow several hours to be safe since the larger capacitors can hold a painful voltage charge for some hours.
If you see signs of overheating such as discoloration of the board material, the PSU may not be repairable but if you can find a part number on the board, you might be able to buy the power supply from the mfr. and install it yourself but it will likely have the same problem eventually unless they have altered the design or improved component quality.
If there are no signs of heat damage to the board, there may be companies offering to repair it as a subassembly instead of repairing the whole set which could be much more expensive.
If you choose to replace or have it done, the main power supply still may not be at fault since most are capable of switching on and off if a downstream problem is causing an overload.
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